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IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0     If  il-  IIIIIM 


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Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


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'^e^yawiyiit^ff^^g^ 


jj— W-yi'iiii  t  |i»ggj|ji|jirn  ULL  Ku-i  Mil"- 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  at  bibliographiques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
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L'Institut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
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de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-3tre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  m^thode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiqu^s  ci-dessous. 


a   Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


□    Coloured  pages/ 
Pages  de  couleur 


I      I    Covers  damaged/ 


Couverture  endommagSe 


y~A    Pages  damaged/ 
,XI    Pages  endommag^es 


D 


Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaurde  et/ou  pellicul6e 


n 


Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restaur^es  et/ou  pellicul6es 


D 


Cover  title  missing/ 

Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 


D 


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Pages  d^color^es,  tachet^es  ou  piqu6es 


D 


Coloured  maps/ 

Cartes  gdographiques  en  couleur 


n 


Pages  detached/ 
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n 


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Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


D 


Showthrough/ 
Transparence 


□ 


Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 
Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 


D 


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Bound  with  other  material/ 
Reli6  avec  d'autres  documents 


D 


includes  supplementary  material/ 
Comprend  du  materiel  suppiementaire 


X 


D 


Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
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La  reliure  serree  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
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pas  6t6  filmdes. 


D 

D 


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Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
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10X  14X  18X  22X 


26X 


30X 


3 

12X 


16X 


2PX 


'24X 


28X 


32X 


re 

l^tails 
BS  du 
modifier 
sr  une 
^ilmage 


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gdndrositd  de: 

Library  of  Congress 
Photoduplication  Service 

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plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  Ui  condition  et 
de  la  nettetS  de  l'exemplaire  film6,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 


es 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  iSlustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
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first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
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or  illustrated  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  — ^  (meaning   "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 


Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprim6e  sont  filmds  en  commenpant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d"illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  selon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  filmds  en  commen9ant  par  la 
premidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  \a 
dernidre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symuole  — ^  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbole  V  signifie  "FIN  ". 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  l^^rge  to  be 
entirety  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  §tre 
film^s  h  des  tajx  de  reduction  diff6rents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  dtre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clichd,  il  est  filmd  d  partir 
de  Tangle  supdrieur  gauche,  de  gauche  5  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  n^cessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrerit  la  m^thode. 


errata 
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2 

3 

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4 

5 

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ni 


K^'l 


LITTLE    GUIDE 


TO 


Niagara  Falls 


CONTAINING 


/  Brief  Description  of  the  Principnl  Points  of  Interest, 
'.'  ,      Best  to  Reacli   Tliem,  Tlieir  Leading 
Cliaracteristics,  etc.,  Togetiier  witii 
the  Prices  Charged  for  Guides. 
Carriages,  and  Conveni- 
ences at  each  Place, 


PROGRAM  FOR  A  TWO  WEEKS'  VISIT, 


1/ 


^  AN  OLD  RESIDENX.  / 

^     '  ii 

"Niagara  Falls  is  the  crowning  i;lnry  of  .Vcw  i'ori 
State,  and  the  highrst  liistinrtioii  of  the  American  Ci'n- 
tinent." 


MATTHF.WS,   NORTIIIU'P 

BUFFALO  AND  NEW  YORK 
1890. 


i  ^^^; 
'* 


•I 


~m»ttmnaamattm 


iiiiiilp''^^ ' 


I 


ClJl'YRIOHTEn,    l80<l,    BY 

MATTHEWS,  NORTIIRl  T  Si  CO. 


/9i^//^^'"  ■ 


71  y. 


THE  TEXT   ANO   PIIOTOGRAniS   IN    THIS   BOOK    ARC  COPYRIGIITKO. 


r 


n 


.'1 


RVV  Si  CO. 


^et> 


■M-y. 


DOOK    ARi;  COrYRIGlirEll. 


lA 


INDEX 


iJ^  fAliE. 

First  (Icncial  View  of  the  Fulls, <) 

The  Walk  alioiil  (loat   Island, u 

,Vicw  from   Prdspuot   Park i6 

Trip  on   the   "  Maiil  iif  the   Mist," iS 

Visit   to    "The   Cave  of  the   Winds," 20 

Visit   to   the   head   of  (Joat    Island 22 

View  from  the  Xew  Suspension  liridge,        ....  2  5 

Queen  Victoria  Jubilee  Park, 24 

\'ieu'  from  Table   Rock, 25 

Trip  under  the  Canadian   Falls, 27 

Trip  to   I.euistoii, 

The  Whirlpool  and  the  Whirlpool  Rapids, 

The  Lunar  Bow 

View  from  the  DufTerin  Isles, 

Various  Drives  about  Niagara, 


30 
V- 
37 
3S 
39 


Where  shall  we  stay  at  Niagara? 42 


JlW 


P_AA^L_S    ff 


•Ur^ALO    «  NEW  YORK. 


1 


% 


\8ISrCH  iblANM 


^  I  r  J,' 


1 


LITTLE   GUIDE 
NIAGARA    FALLS 


Reader,  you  are  now  at  Niagara  i  alls,  ^'()ll  have 
read  about  it.  You  have  seen  pictures  of  it.  Vou  ii.ivc 
been  asked  if  you  have  visiti-d  it.  Vou  liave  longed  t(j 
i)ehold  it.     Vou  arc  hcru. 

Will  it,  indeed,  secni  to  you  to  be  what  so  many 
Kreat  minds  have  pronounced  it,  "The  most  beautiful 
sijiht  in  the  world  ?  "    Will  it  seem  worthy  of  your  ad- 
miration, your  reverence  and  your  love  .'     Iklieve  me, 
dear  reader,  that  will  depend  very  l.ir^'ely  upon  the  io/n- 
and /<'«;/<';-  — the  //tou:;///::  wkh  which  you  approach 
it.     If  you  would  know  the  real  elements  of  its  beauty, 
the    thou).;hls    it    has    excited    in    the 
minds  of  many  distintjuished  men  and      ARRIVAL  AT 
women,  you  will  not  regret  procuring        NIA(}ARA 
at  the  hotels  at  Niagara  —  either  at  the 
.Spencf.r  House  or  at  the  In  !i;rnational  Hotki.— 
the  little  pamphlet  entitled,  "  Introduction  to  Niagara 
Falls."    The  extracts  there  given,  will,  I  hope,  do  much 
to  place  you  in  the  right  ii/ooti  to  really  see  and  to- study 
Niagara.    The  reading  of  that  pamphlet,  will,  I  believe, 
do  away  with  a  flood  of  erroneous  ideas.    Vou  will  be- 
gin to  appreciate  how  utterly  futile  and  absurd  it  is  to 
attempt  to  "  do  "  Niagara  in  a  few  hours  or  a  day.    How 
ignominious  and  contemptible  a  proceeding  it  is  to  drive 
hurriedly  in  and  about  these  sacred  precincts  in  a  hack. 


i ': 


) . 


'1  n 


!l  1 


Vk 


\nn  will  resolutely  close  your  ears  to  all  offers  to  "  drive 
you  arouiiil  it  "  for  a  small  sum,  \in\  will  scat  your- 
self at  the  hotel  uiiiil  yoii  have  carefully  perused  this 
panifihlct,  ami  then,  and  U'lt  until  then,  start  out  to  jjet 
your  iirst  j^iimpse  of  Niagara.  May  ''  '"'  '""  '""^  "^  " 
y;rcai  uumbcr!  May  it  he  your  experictu'c,  as  it  has 
been  mine,  that  the  niore  you  see  it  the  more  nr"''"'!. 
majestic,  and  surpassiu^ly  beautiful  it  will  seem,  and 
the  more  anlcnily  you  will  desire  not  to  pass  a  day, 
but  weeks  and  months  on  tliis  enchanted  );roiuul. 

Why,  if  this  is  so,  is  it  that  so  many  people  hurry  "m 
their  visit  to  Niaijara?  The  re.ison  is  this.  Where 
there  is  one  p(.Tsou  who  really  de^res  to  see  Niajj^ara, 
there  are  hundreds  who  simply  desire  to  .uiy  they  have 
seen  it.  These  are  llicy  wlm  come  in  the  'iiorniujj  and 
go  ,'iway  at  noon  — who  glance  at  Niagara  as  if  that 
one  look  could  give  them  any  just  conception  of  its 
grandeur  and  beauty,  and  who  never  even  have  a  single 
sensation  of  awe,  admiration,  or  astonishment;  who 
jump  into  carriages,  gabble  on  the  way,  chatter  on  the 
brink  of  the  awful  cataract,  drive  rapiilly  to  the  noise  of 
their  own  voices,  throu;^h  its  majestic- woods  —  fit  spots 
for  sweet  ruid  solemn  thoughts  -  -  listen  to  some  garbk  d 
tales  of  horror,  told  by  an  ignorant  driver,  keep  on  the 
move  all  day,  and  depart  —  poor,  foolish  souls'  —  im- 
agining they  have  seen  Niagara !  They  have  never 
even  commenced  to  comprehend  the  first  element  of 
its  beauty. 

Let  this  not  be  your  temper,  your  spirit,  your  method 
of  viewing  Niagara.  Come  to  it  resolved  to  make  its 
beauty  part  of  your  own  mental  self,  its  grandeur  and 
majesty  part  of  the  current  of  your  thought.  Let  its 
great  and  glorious  piiiures  be  Sf)  etched  on  your  mem- 
ory by  repeated  visits,  that  these  will  shine  forevi-r 
lighted  up  by  the  sunlight  of  remembrance,  in  the 
gallery  of  your  choicest  mental  treasures.  Then 
Niagara  will  be  to  you  an  inspiration,  a  blessed  recol- 
lection, a  theme  of  serious  comment,  and  —  recalling 


I  to  all  offtTs  to  "  drive 
N'oii  will  scat  ymir- 
:arffiilly  ptTuseil  this 
then,  start  out  to  ^jet 
lay  it  111'  hut  one  of  a 
cxpfrit-nii.',  as  it  has 
c  it  the  more  Krand, 
iful  it  will  seem,  and 
•e  not  to  pass  a  day, 
chanted  ^^roiiiul. 
iiaiiy  people  hurry  ni 
ason  is  this.  Where 
jsires  to  see  Niaj^ara, 
e^ire  to  .uiy  tlicy  have 
le  in  the  'iiornitij;  and 
at  Niagara  as  if  that 
lust  conception  of  its 
ver  even  have  a  single 
r  astonishment ;  who 
le  way,  chatter  on  the 
rapiiUy  to  the  noise  of 
istic-woods  —  fit  spots 
listen  to  some  garbled 
nt  driver,  keep  on  the 
■,  foolish  souls'  —  im- 
i !  They  have  never 
I  the  first  element  of 

)ur  spirit,  your  method 
t  resolved  to  make  its 
self,  its  grandeur  and 
our  thought.  Let  its 
etched  on  your  mem- 
;se  will  shine  forever 
remembrance,  in  the 
tal  treasures.  Then 
ation,  a  blessed  recol- 
iment,  and  —  recalling 


its  loveliness,  its  awful  majesty,  its  e»(]iiisite  beauty 
your  thoughts  will  be  insensibly  and  repeatedly  led  to  the 
Kternal  S|)irit,  the  Divine  Artist,  whose  work  this  is. 

I  assinne  now,  that,  arriving  in  the  evening,  let  us 
say,  you  will  select  as  your  liord  either  the  Sjiet  cer 
House  — directly  opposite  the  New  York  Centr.il  Sta- 
tion—or the  International  Hotel  -the  nearest  hotel 
to  the  Falls,  and  three  blocks  from  the  New  York  Cen- 
tr.il station.  Thoroughly  refreshed  by  a  good  night's 
sleep  and  an  excellent  breakfast,  you  begin  your  first 
day  at  Ni.igara.  Krom  the  .Spencer  House  you  step 
out  on  the  front  pi.iz/a,  turn  to  your  left  and  walk 
directly  down  the  street  three  blocks  to  tin-  Falls.  You 
cannot  miss  your  way.  if  you  are  at  the  International, 
step  out  of  the  re.ir  of  the  ollice  on  to  the  piazzas  and 
the  Rapids,  Goat  Island,  and  Prospect  Park  are  in  full 
view.  Walk  down  the  lawn  and 
yfiu  will  see  the  sidewalk  Iciding 
to  the  Falls.  I'^illow  that  and  you 
find  yourself  at  Prospect  Park  — 
entirely  free  —  where,  from  Pros- 
pect Point  you  obtain  your  first 
full  view  of  the  great  Falls,  as  well  as  a  general  survey 
of  the  various  points  of  view  and  objects  of  interest. 

Directly  in  front  of  you  are  the  Falls.  Upon  your  left, 
the  bridge  leading  to  Cioat  Island,  the  Goat  Island  group, 
the  Upper  Rapids.  To  your  right  is  the  inclined  stair- 
way leailing  to  the  foot  of  the  American  Falls,  and 
from  which  you  start  on  a  most  enjoyable  trip  on  the 
little  steamer  "  Maid  of  the  Mist,"  which  takes  you  up 
to  the  very  foot  of  the  Horseshoe  Falls.  Farther  to 
the  right  you  see  the  new  Suspension  Hridge  leading  to 
Canada,  and  then  back  upon  the  left,  on  the  Canadian 
side,  you  see  the  road  winding  along  the  river  bank  past 
Table  Rock  to  the  edge  of  the  C.iadian  Falls,  and 
thence  through  the  delightful  Queen  Victoria  Park,  also 
free ;  thence  the  road  leads  up  to  the  Dufferin  Isles, 
the  most  exquisitely  beautiful  and  retired  spot  about 


"1 


FIRST 

GENERAL  VIKW 

OF  FALLS. 


Niagara;  passing  these,  the  road  winds  up  the  river 
—  one  of  the  most  lovely  drives  in  t'.e  world.  Cast- 
ing your  eyes  btick  now  to  the  right,  below  the  upper 
Suspension  liridge,  you  catch  sight  of  the  road  winding 
down  the  S'ide  of  the  river,  conHnrting  you  to  the  Whirl- 
pool and  Whirlpool  Rapids,  and  various  other  points 
of  interest  to  be  hereafter  described. 

Now  you  have  your  bearings.  You  can  begin  to  see 
Niagara  now,  if  you  will.  You  are  now  at  Prospect 
I'ark,  with  its  comfortable  seats,  its  venerable  trees,  its 
delightful  viewu  —  all  of  which  are  yours  without  price 
or  fee.  The  State  of  New  York  paid  over  a  million 
dollars  to  enable  you  to  enjoy  this  privilege.  Yours  is 
the  estate  if  you  will  only  use  it, 

Why  deprive  yourself  of  sufficient  time  to  enjoy  its 
beauty? 

Observe  the  changing  glories  of  the  great  cataract. 
Note  the  magnificent  cloud-forms  above  the  I'"alls,  the 
ever-varying  shapes  which  the  rushing  rapids  assume, 
the  etferts  of  the  sunlight  on  the  rising  spray,  transform- 
ing its  cold  mists  into  rainbow  colors,  shifting,  rising  and 
falling  in  eternal  motion.  Rest  quietly  under  these  ven- 
erable trees  and  let  the  sight  become  etched  upon  your 
soul  —  there  to  remain  a  picture  of  beauty  and  of 
power,  in  after  years  one  of  your  choicest  possessions. 
The  time  will  seem  all  too  short  when  your  watch  will 
inform  you  it  is  time  to  return  to  the  hotel  to  enjoy  the 
noon-day  meal,  and  to  give  the  surfeited  imagination 
and  exhausted  vision  an  opportunity  to  recover  their 
full  force  to  appreciate  new  sights  of  beauty. 

If  during  the  remainder  of  the  day  you  desire  to 
rest,  or  to  enjoy  the  Rapids  from  a  distance  —  lunch 
leisurely  and  watch  the  Falls  from  the  International 
piazza;  if  on  desire  to  accjuire  information  relating  to 
the  historical  incidents  connected  with  Niagara,  a  vol- 
ume on  this  subject  will  be  furnished  you,  which  you 
can  read  at  your  leisure  on  the  cool  and  shady  piazzas 
of  cither  Hotel. 


10 


"*n 


d  winds  up  the  river 

in  t'le  world.     Cast- 

ight,  below  the  upper 

It  of  the  road  winchng 

•ting  you  to  the  Wliirl- 

i  various  other  points 

3ed. 

You  can  begin  to  see 

are  now  at  Prospect 

its  venerable  trees,  its 

re  yours  without  price 

c  paid  over  a  million 

is  privilege.     Yours  is 

:ient  time  to  enjoy  its 

of  the  great  cataract. 
s  above  the  I'"alls,  the 
ishing  rapids  assume, 
sing  spray,  transform- 
ers, shifting,  rising  and 
uietLy  under  these  ven- 
3me  etched  upon  your 
re  of  beauty  and  of 
r  choicest  possessions. 
when  your  watch  will 
the  hotel  to  enjoy  the 
surfeited  imagination 
unity  to  recover  their 
s  of  beauty, 
he  day  you  desire  to 
m  a  distance  —  lunch 
■om  the  International 
nformation  relating  to 
1  with  Niagara,  a  voi- 
ished  you,  which  you 
nol  and  shady  piazzas 


,   I 


r 


ii  ' 


JlM 


J 


Il 


T^  r 


Should  you  desire  to  drive,  you  can  procure  a  car- 
riage at  the  Hotel,  or  a  van  in  the  Prospect  Park,  to  go 
about  Goat  Island  for  the  morning  or  afternoon,  allow- 
ing you  ample  time  to  alight  and  acquaint  yourself 
with  the  location  of  the  various  places  of  interest  which 
you  really  visit  later  im  foot,  to  truly  appreciate.  The 
highest  price  you  should  pay  for  the  carriage  is  two 
dollars  for  your  party,  and  yeu  can  possibly  get  it 
cheaper  by  making  a  special  bargain.  The  price  of  a 
seat  in  one  of  the  vans  is  twenty-five  cents  per  person. 
But  —  let  me  again  repeat  —  if  you  start  to  walk  at 
any  time,  on  this  or  any  other  trip,  do  not,  tmder  any 
consideration,  allow  yourself  to  be  persuaded  by  some 
persistent  hackman  —  utterly  irresponsible  and  .some- 
times thoroughly  dangerous,  not  even  hesitating  at 
highway  robbery  —  to  be  "  taken  around  to  see  every- 
thing "for  one  or  two  dollars!  You  will  end  by  being 
thoroughly  tired,  surfeited  and  dis- 
contented, dissatisfied  with  yourself  WALK  ABOUT 
and  Niagara,  confused  by  its  sights  qoat  ISLAND 
and  sounds,  and  anxious  to  depart. 

Let  us  assume,  then,  that  you  v.-ill  start  on  the  second 
day  of  your  visit  for  a  walk  or  drive  about  Goat  Island 
—  that  loveliest  jewel  in  fair  Niagara's  crown.  Passing 
over  the  first  bridge  you  are  upon  Bath  Island,  thence 
you  pass  over  the  second  bridge  and  are  upon  Goat 
Island.  Turn  now  to  the  right  and  pass  along  one  of 
the  loveliest  walks  in  the  world  until  you  come  to  a 
point  overlooking  the  American  Falls,  and  where  there 
is  a  staircase  winding  down  the  bank  to  a  bridge,  pass- 
ing to  a  small  but  lovely  island.  This  is  Luna  Island, 
and  it  is  from  this  point  that  one  has  the  finest  view  of 
that  dream  of  loveliness,  the  rainbow  by  moonlight,  or 
as  it  is  usually  called,  the  Lunar  bow.  Observe  the 
view,  in  order  to  return  and  study  it  at  your  leisure 
again.  Retrace  your  steps  up  the  stair-case,  and  pro- 
ceed along  the  river  bank  until  the  house  is  reached 
surmounted  by  the  sign  "  Cave  of  the  Winds."  Passing 


1  j) 
i 


4 


M 


II 


through  this  house  the  visitor  reaches  the  bottom  of 
the  bank  by  a  winding  stair-case,  thence  along  the 
bank  leading  to  that,  perhaps,  most  magnificent  and 
awful  of  all  scenes  at  Niagara,  the  Cave  of  the  Winds. 
A  charge  is  made  for  this  trip  —  one  dollar  per  person, 
including  in  this  charge  a  guide  and  a  dress.  The  trip 
is  absolutely  safe.  No  one  has  ever  been  lost,  and  it 
is  inconceivably  grand.  The  visitor  passes  directly  be- 
iiind  the  Falls  —  and  nowhere  else  can  one  realize  the 
resistless  terrible  force  and  power  there  is  in  the  fall  of 
tliose  apparently  peaceful  waters  gliding  smoothly  and 
swiftly  to  the  brink.  Noting  the  spot  to  return  to  it 
.'igain  and  visit  this  wonderful  cave,  continue  along 
the  island-walk  until  there  is  a  break  in  the  foliage  and 
a  clear  view ;  stop  now,  and  look  over  this  precipice. 
You  begin  to  realize  the  immense  height  which  separ- 
ates you  from  the  waters  below.  It  is  an  impressive 
and  terrible  scene,  and  it  is  not  well  to  linger  here  long, 
lest  dizziness  supervene. 

Thence  continue  along  the  walk  until  the  foliage 
permits  you  to  obtain  a  view  of  the  Canadian  Falls  — 
called  the  Great  Crescent  or  Horseshoe  Falls.  Pro- 
ceed down  the  fine  staircase  leading  out  over  the 
bridge  to  the  edge  of  the  Falls.  This  point  is  called 
Terrapin  Rocks,  and  upon  it  was  formerly  situated  the 
Terrapin  Tower.  Confess,  now,  that  the  view  you  have 
of  the  entire  Falls  is  one  worth  coming  a  thousand 
miles  to  see.  How  it  changes  during  the  day !  how 
beauti'  il  in  the  morning !  how  magnificent  in  the  full 
noontide !  how  awful  in  the  rays  of  the  setting  sun  ! 
Day  after  day,  and  night  after  night,  these  great  floods 
descend  —  with  no  confusion  or  tumult,  but  ever-flow- 
ing, resistless,  terrible  as  fate  itself.  Glance  at  the 
tremendous  volume  of  waters  with  their  hue  of  deep 
emerald.  Notice  the  lashed  waves  beneath  on  which 
the  little  steamer,  the  "  Maid  of  the  Mist,"  with  its 
load  of  precious  freight,  rides  like  a  little  toy-boat  in 
safety. 


12 


1' 


;aches  the  bottom  of 
ise,  thence  along  the 
:iost  magnificent  and 
le  Cave  of  the  Winds, 
one  dollar  per  person, 
nd  a  dress.  The  trip 
!ver  been  lost,  and  it 
tor  passes  directly  be- 
le  can  one  realize  the 
■  there  is  in  the  fall  of 
gliding  smoothly  and 
i  spot  to  return  to  it 
cave,  continue  along 
■eak  in  the  foliage  and 
k  over  this  precipice. 
;  height  which  separ- 
It  is  an  impressive 
fell  to  linger  here  long, 

.^alk  until  the  foliage 
the  Canadian  Falls  — 
orseshoe  Falls.  Pro- 
eading  out  over  the 
This  point  is  called 
)  formerly  situated  the 
that  the  view  you  have 
1  coming  a  thousand 
during  the  day !  how 
nagnificent  in  the  full 
s  of  the  setting  sun  ! 
ght,  these  great  floods 
tumult,  but  ever-How- 
itself.  Glance  at  the 
nth  their  hue  of  deep 
vts  beneath  on  which 
if  the  Mist,"  with  its 
ke  a  little  toy-boat  in 


Returning  to  the  bank  above,  and  turning  to  the 
right,  follow  the  path  through  delightful  forest  walks 
up  to  the  Three  Sister  Islands  —  visions  of  beauty  and 
of  grace  which  it  is  useless  to  attempt  to  describe. 
Here  are  charming  little  spots,  cool  and  shady  retreats 
in  summer  heat;  here  are  dainty  cascades  with  ten 
thousand  various  shades  of  color  and  shapes  of  beauty  ; 
here,  as  you  sit  on  the  third  Sister  Island,  the  wild 
onrushing  rapids  seem  to  descend  from  the  skies,  and 
every  vestige  of  civilization  has  completely  disappeared. 

You  are  in  the  very  presence  of  terrible,  yet  beauti- 
ful Nature.  The  man  who  cannot  for  hours  sit  here 
and  find  unceasing  delight  in  the  contemplation  of  this 
truly  beautiful  sight,  may  well  suspect  that  he  does  not 
properly  comprehend  the  Spirit  that  speaks  to  man 
through  the  multitudinous  sounds  of  Nature. 

Returning  once  more  to  the  Goat  Island  shore,  con- 
tinue your  walk  to  the  right  to  thp  upper  end  of  the 
island.  How  complete  the  change !  How  utterly  im- 
possible it  is  to  realize  that  so  short  a  distance  below 
the  great  Falls  exists !  How  placid  and  quiet  the  ri ver 
seems  —  how  melodious  and  soothing  its  gentle  ripple 
and  murmur !  Of  all  spots  about  Niagara  this  is  one 
of  the  most  attractive,  and,  after  lingering  here,  you 
may  continue  your  walk  back  to  the  Island  bridge, 
stopping  on  your  way  at  the  Spring  below  the  bank  to 
enjoy  a  cup  of  the  purest  water,  and  watching  from 
your  shady  retreat,  amid  the  embowering  trees,  the 
glittering  waves,  the  tossing  shapes,  the  wild  magnifi- 
cence of  the  Rapids.  In  this  part  of  Niagara  alone 
you  will  find  more  enchanting  bowers  of  grace  and 
beauty  than  in  all  the  glens  of  Watkins  and  HaVana. 
Continuing  your  walk,  you  reach  the  spot  from  which 
you  started. 

Usually  you  should  visit  the  Goat  Island  Group  on 
foot  in  the  morning ;  the  foliage  is  fresher  and  brighter, 
and  at  every  one  of  the  spots  we  have  alluded  to  half 


M 


13 


a  day  may  profitably  be  passed.  Leading  through  the 
Island  are  forest  walks  to  the  Terrapin  Rocks  and  the 
Three  Sister  Islands,  absolutely  quiet  nooks  in  the  very 
recesses  of  the  primitive  forest  where  you  may  walk 
and  linger  for  hours  undisturbed,  with  care  and  busi- 
ness-tumult apparently  ten  thousand  miles  away.  The 
birds  are  singing  all  about  you ;  the  squirrels  come 
and  play  at  your  feet ;  many  new  kinds  of  wild  flowers 
bloom  there;  the  sunlight  falls  on  a  carpet  of  soft 
moss  and  of  dainty  ferns  —  while  over  your  head 
arch  the  forest  boughs  and  the  great  sky,  pure  and 
clear,  unsullied  by  the  city's  smoke  and  dust. 

Yet  all  this  time  you  have  seen  and  studied  only  the 
beauties  of  one  island  at  Niagara ;  selected  because  it  is 
a  fair  illustration  of  many,  many  other  spots.  Yet 
creatures  having  the  form  and  general  appearance  of 
rational  human  beings  actually  attempt  to  "do  all 
Niagara  "  in  a  ^/rf// 


It  may  not  be  uninteresting  in  this  connection  for 
tile  visitor  to  read  Charles  Dudley  Warner's  descip- 
tion  of  the  Goat  Island  walk,  as  given  in  his  delightful 
work,  "  Their  Pilgrimage."    Here  it  is : 

"  The  walk  around  Goat  Island  is  probably  unsur- 
passed in  the  world  for  wonder  and  beauty.  The 
Americans  have  everv  reason  to  be  satisfied  with  their 
share  of  the  fall.  They  get  nowhere  one  single  grand 
view  like  that  from  the  Canada  side,  but  infinitely  the 
deepest  impression  of  majesty  and  power  is  obtained 
on  Goat  Island.  There  the  spectator  is  in  the  midst 
of  the  war  of  Nature.  From  the  point  over  the  Horse- 
shoe Fall,  our  friends  —  speaking  not  much,  but  more 
and  more  deeply  moved  —  strolled  along  the  lovely 
forest,  in  a  rural  solemnity,  in  a  local  calm,  almost  a 
seclusion,  except  for  the  ever  present  shuddering  roar 
in  the  air.  On  the  shore  above  the  Horseshoe,  they 
first  comprehended  the  breadth,  the  great  sweep  of  the 


14 


rF5»r!«Tli3-==-T 


•■-— -  «^^— ^^i-^>i_=w7.a*«re« 


Leading  through  the 
errapin  Rocks  and  the 
quiet  nooks  in  the  very 
where  you  may  walk 
d,  with  care  and  busi- 
and  miles  away.  The 
LI ;  the  squirrels  come 
;  kinds  of  wild  flowers 
5  on  a  carpet  of  soft 
/hile  over  your  head 
;  great  sky,  pure  and 
ike  and  dust. 

n  and  studied  only  the 
;  selected  because  it  is 
my  other  spots.  Yet 
jenera!  appearance  of 
J  attempt  to  "do  all 


in  this  connection  for 
ley  Warner's  desci-ip- 
given  in  his  delightful 
re  it  is : 

nd  is  probably  unsur- 
vc  and   beauty.     The 

be  satisfied  with  their 
•here  one  single  grand 
side,  but  infinitely  the 
ind  power  is  obtained 
xtator  is  in  the  midst 

point  over  the  Horse- 
g  not  much,  but  more 
lied  along  the  lovely 
1  local  calm,  almost  a 
esent  shuddering  roar 
E  the  Horseshoe,  they 
the  great  sweep  of  the 


rapids,  the  white  crests  of  the  waves  ever  coming  out 
from  under  a  black,  lowering  sky.  All  the  foreground 
was  in  bright  junlight,  dancing,  sparkling,  leaping,  hurry- 
ing  on,  converging  to  the  angle  where  the  water  becomes 
a  deep  emerald,  at  the  brink  and  plunge.  The  rapids 
above  are  a  series  of  shelves,  bristling  with  jutting 
locks  and  lodged  stumps  of  trees,  and  the  wildness  of 
the  scene  is  intensified  by  the  rugged  fringe  of  ever- 
green on  the  opposite  shore.  Over  the  whole  island, 
the  mist  rising  from  the  caldron,  drifts  in  a  spray  when 
the  wind  is  favorable.  Ikit  on  this  day  the  forest  was 
bright  and  cheerful,  and  as  the  strollers  went  farther 
away  from  the  great  fall,  the  beauty  of  the  scene  began 
to  steal  away  its  terror,  the  roar  was  still  dominant, 
but  fat  off  and  softened,  and  did  not  crush  the  ear. 
The  triple  islands,  the  Three  Sisters,  in  their  picturesque 
wildness,  appeared  like  playful  freaks  of  Nature  in  a 
momentary  relaxation  of  the  savage  mood.  Here  is 
the  finPsL  view  of  the  river.  To  one  standing  on  the 
outmost  island,  the  great  flood  seems  tumbling  out  of 
the  sky.  They  continued  along  the  b  ink  of  the  river, 
where  the  shallow  stream  races  by  headlong,  but  close 
to  the  edges  are  numerous  eddies,  and  places  where 
one  might  step  in  and  not  be  swept  away.  At  length 
they  reach  the  point  where  the  river  divides,  and  the 
water  stands  for  an  instant  almost  still,  hesitating 
whether  to  take  the  Canadian  or  the  American  plun^ ;. 
Out  a  little  way  from  the  shore  the  waves  leap  and 
tumble,  and  the  two  currents  are  like  race-horses, 
parted  on  two  ways  to  the  goal.  Just  at  this  point  the 
water  swirls  and  lingers,  having  lost  all  its  fierceness 
and  haste,  and  spreads  itself  out  placidly,  dimpling  in 
the  sun.  It  may  be  a  treacherous  pause,  this  water 
may  be  as  cruel  as  that  which  rages  below,  and  exults 
in  catching  a  boat  or  a  man  and  bounding  with  the 
victim  over  the  cataract.  But  the  calm  was  very  grate- 
ful to  the  stunned  and  buffeted  visitors.  Upon  their 
jarred  nerves  it  was  like  the  peace  of  God." 


('■t' 


.  sj 


15 


I.  ■:l'  ; 


'd-'hiiiSiiiiS^' 


MONDAY. 

Let  us  assume  you  have  passed  your  first  day  at 
Niaj^ara  in  this  general  visit  to  Prospect  Park  and 
Goat  Island.  You  have  now,  as  it  were,  a  bird's-eye 
view  of  the  American  side.     Let  us  again  on 

TUIiSOA  y 

proceed  to  study  this  magnificent  masterpiece  of  Na- 
ture. Starting  again  on  Prospect  Point,  observe  more 
carefully  the  scene.  And  hereafter,  in  the  descriptions 
given,  unless  otherwise  indicated,  I  use  the  words  of 
the  venerable  man  of  whom  I  made  mention  in  the 
little  pamphlet  "  Introduction  to  Niagara."  To  him  be 
all  the  praise  of  which  they  are  worthy.  Of  this  .scene 
he  says :  —  The  river  rolls  by  in  the  sunlight  like 
a  ruffled  sea  of  silver,  two  hundred  feet  beneath  tiie 
cliff  from  which  you   look  down,  bounded  on  either 

side  by  huge  frowning  walls  of 

VIEW  FROM  limestone,  crested  by  fair  fields, 

PROSPECT  PARK.      ^^'^     clustering     forest     trees, 

stretching  away  in  the  distance. 
The  agitated  and  heaving  abyss,  the  clouds  of  rising 
spray,  the  ilashing  snowy  sheet  hanging  between  sea 
and  sky,  the  dark  cliffs  and  islands  that  bound  and 
divide  them,  the  ocean  of  tumbling  waters  that  seem 
sporting  above  and  beyond  the  precipice,  and  come 
dancing  over  the  cataract  to  the  music  of  its  everlast- 
ing roar,  together  form  a  scene,  compared  to  which  the 
ruins  of  Balbec  or  Palm.yra,  the  Pyramids  of  Egypt,  or 
the  temples  of  (ireece  and  Rome,  are  but  the  ioys  and 
foot-balls  of  time. 

The  best  view  of  the  Falls,  on  the  American  side, 
is  from  this  point.  Table  Rock,  the  Horseshoe  Fall 
Goat  Island,  the  Central  Fall,  the  American  Fall,  th 
rapids  and  islands  above,  and  the  abyss  and  rive, 
below,  are  all  within  sight;  but  of  the  Horseshoe  Fa 
the  view  is  distant  and  partial.  In  fact,  there  is  no  com- 
plete view  of  the  cataract  on  the  American  side.     From 


i6 


T 


■r^ 


ssed  your  first  day  at 
:o  Prospect  Park  and 
as  it  were,  a  bird's-eye 
:t  us  again  on 


lit  masterpiece  of  Na- 
ct  Point,  observe  more 
fter,  in  the  descriptions 
;d,  I  use  tlie  words  of 
made  mention  in  the 
'  Niagara."  To  him  be 
worthy.  Of  this  scene 
'  in  the  sunlight  like 
idred  feet  beneath  tiie 
m.  bounded  on  either 
uge  frowning  walls  of 
,  crested  by  fair  fields, 
stering  forest  trees, 
f  away  in  the  distance. 
>s,  the  clouds  of  rising 
t  hanging  between  sea 
lands  that  bound  and 
)ling  waters  that  seem 
e  precipice,  and  come 
e  music  of  its  everlast- 
compared  to  which  the 
Pyramids  of  Egypt,  or 
e,  are  but  the  toys  aiid 

on  the  American  side, 
k,  the  Horseshoe  Fall 
he  American  Fall,  th 
1  the  abyss  and  rive: 
of  the  Horseshoe  Fa' 
[n  fact,  there  is  no  corn- 
American  side.     From 


the  opposite  shore  only,  can  Niagara  be  seen  in  all  its 
parts,  and  in  all  its  sui)lime  majesty,  at  a  single  gl.mce. 
Hut  that  one  view,  grand  and  overwhelming  as  it  con- 
fessedly is,  is  almost  the  only  one  on  the  Canada 
shore.  There  are,  it  is  true,  n  ny  modifications  of  it, 
depending  upon  the  points  from  which  it  is  observed  ; 
but  it  is  still  the  same  in  all  its  leading  features,  and 
has  a  strange  oneness  about  it,  th.it  awes  even  more 
than  it  interests.  The  eye  and  the  mind,  pained  by 
its  transcendant  vastness  and  sublimity,  can  scarcely 
dwell  upon  it  without  some  interval  of  repose. 

On  the  American  side,  on  the  contrary,  while  there 
is  no  one  view  of  the  cataract  so  grand  and  perfect, 
there  are  many  of  different  parts,  each  exceedingly 
beautiful  and  impressive ;  and  such  a  variety  of  river 
and  forest  scenery,  that  the  attention  is  diverted  from 
one  object  to  another,— something  new  and  fresh  is 
presented  at  every  turn,  the  eye  is  delighted,  the  mind 
excited  by  a  constant  succession  of  pleasing  and  august 
appearances,— and  thus  a  delicious  interest  is  kept  up, 
which  seems  to  while  away  the  hours  ;  and  while  lovely 
and  striking  images  are  fast  crowding  upon  the  eye 
and  mind,  they  are  both,  as  it  were,  refreshed  and  ren- 
ovated by  novelty  and  change. 

From  Prospect  Point,  having  looked  at  the  glorious 
scene  as  long  as  you  choose,  advance  to  the  very  brink 
of  the  cataract  at  Prospect  Place.  Here,  standing  on 
a  secure  platform,  you  can  look  directly  down  at  the 
awful  depths;  the  huge  blockr,  of  stone,  the  rock- 
ilashed  spray  and  foam,  the  shivering  sheet,  and  the 
heaving  abyss,  and  up  at  the  Falls,  and  particularly  the 
American  cascade,  of  which  you  have  a  capital  view, 
though  not  the  best. 

The  American  Fall  is  characterized  by  an  irregular- 
ity that  gives  it  a  wild  and  singular  beauty.  The  out- 
line is  far  projecting  and  deeply  indented,  yet  with  no 
very  abrupt  transitions,  and  certainly  no  monotonous 
parallels.     The  water  flows  over  it  in  a  broad  billowy 


17 


■•— — tmu/^ri^nS 


*f 


!J 


Stream,  <ind  is  thrown  out  by  crajjj^y  points  in  a  hun- 
dred places,  so  that  it  passes  down  in  a  ^jlorious  snow- 
white  drapery,  wreathing  into  graceful  tlet-cy  folds, 
and  possessing  so  niuih  v.iriety  with  so  complete  a 
unity,  that  it  not  only  awes  but  delights,  and  you 
almost  forget  its  inmiensity  in  the  contemplation  of  its 
beauty.  Ne.ir  the  shore,  where  the  water  is  shallow, 
the  stream  ripples  along  pure  and  clear  as  crystal,  and 
falls  from  the  brink  in  a  shower  of  sparkling  i)rilliancy. 
Large  rocks  lay  piled  up  at  the  foot  of  tiie  precipice, 
where  it  is  evident  they  have  fallen  from  the  dizzy 
height,  and  the  descending  torrent  dashes  against 
them  and  Hashes  up  in  foam  and  spray. 
This  of  itself  will  afford  ample  study  for  the  forenoon. 


TRIP  ON 
MAID    OF    THK 
MIST." 


In  the  afternoon,  proceeding  again  to  I'rospect  Park, 
ride  down  the  Inclined  Railway  and  take  a  trip  on  the 
little  steamer  "  Maid  of  the  Mist." 
(Charge,  50  cents  each  person.) 

liefore  you  are  aware  of  it,  you 
find  yourst'lf  in  the  middle  of  the 
str.'am,  and  the  boat  riding  grace- 
fully over  the  heavy  swells.    What 
a  scene  now  courts  your  eager  gaze  .  fhe  mighty  cata- 
ract in  all  its  sublimity  and  immensity  is  above  and 
before  you. 

Vou  are  in  the  nave  of  a  vast  temple,  whose  walls 
seem  the  eternal  hills,  corniced  with  crags,  ornamented 
with  a  fretwork  of  trees,  shrubs,  flowers,  and  foliage ; 
whose  dome  is  the  blue  heaven,  and  whose  altar  is  the 
mighty  cataract,  draped  with  hangings  of  green  and 
snow,  while  from  its  unseen  base  clouds  of  incense  are 
ascending  to  the  skies,  and  bearing  up  the  solemn  peal 
of  its  mist-hidden  thunder-toned  organ.  The  floor  is 
of  emerald  and  alabaster ;  elements  are  the  ministers, 
and  you  a  worshiper.  This  temple  was  the  work  of 
Nature,  and  to  the  God  of  Nature  erected.  Human 
hands  could  not  lift  even  a  corner  of  its  veil ;  human 


18 


raifj^y  points  in  a  hun- 
wn  in  a  glorious  snow- 

jjracxful  tleecy  folds, 
ty  with  so  complete  a 
but  deli^jhts,  and  you 
le  contemplation  of  its 
!  the  water  is  shallow, 
lid  clear  as  crystal,  and 

of  sparklinj^  brilliancy. 
i  foot  of  the  precipice, 

fallen  from  the  dizzy 
orrent  dashes    aj^ainst 
J  spray, 
study  for  the  forenoon. 

itjain  to  Prospect  Park, 
and  take  a  trip  on  the 
er  "  Maid  of  the  Mist." 
3  cents  each  person.) 
ou  are  aware  of  it,  you 
If  in  the  middle  of  the 
i  the  boat  riding  grace- 
!ie  heavy  swells.  What 
;aze  .  fhe  mighty  cata- 
imensity  is  above  and 

it  temple,  whose  walls 
vith  crags,  ornamented 
i,  (lowers,  and  foliajje  ; 
and  whose  altar  is  the 
langings  of  green  and 
e  clouds  of  incense  are 
ing  up  the  solemn  peal 
d  organ.  The  floor  is 
lenis  are  the  ministers, 
mple  was  the  work  of 
ture  erected.  Human 
ler  of  its  veil ;  human 


art  could  not  equal  the  smallest  of  its  marvels;  human 
eyes  could  not  penetrate  the  least  of  its  mysteries. 

A  vast  semi-circle  of  cataracts  stretches  around 
you,  foriuini,'  a  scene  of  surpassing  splendor  and  sub- 
limity, lluife  and  massy  walls  of  rock  are  on  cither 
side,  and  the  shivering  boat  in  which  you  sit,  lloats 
upon  the  surface  of  a  sea,  fathomless,  convulsed,  and 
inuTicasurable.  Endless  torrents,  bursting  as  it  were 
from  the  opened  heavens,  le.ip  from  the  brow  of  the 
tremendous  precipice,  plunge  headlong  down  the  ter- 
rific heiijht,  and  lash  the  deep  profound,  into  which 
they  are  hurled,  to  foam  and  madness.  The  sonorous 
breathinvvi  of  the  tortured  abyss  roll  up  and  reverber- 
ate in  thunder-peals ;  and  air  and  earth  tremble  at  the 
shock  of  the  contending  Hoods.  Dense  clouds  of 
spray,  rolling  and  curling  up  in  sha|)eless  and  ever- 
v.irying  forms,  conceal  the  meeting  of  the  waters,  and 
majestically  soar  aloft,  heaven- borne  on  the  wings  of 
the  wind.  The  sun,  shedding  refulgent  splendors  upon 
the  glorious  scene,  see:ns  girdled  with  a  radiant  halo 
by  the  rising  nii>ts ;  and  rainbows,  broken  into  frag- 
ments by  the  shifting  vapors,  appear  and  vanish,  daz- 
zle and  dissolve,  on  every  side,  in  quick  and  magic 
succession. 

WEDNf-SDA  V. 

In  the  morning  visit  Goat  Island,  lingering  in  the 
forest  walk  directly  tliri)ui.',h  the  heart  of  the  Island,  and 
leading  to  the  romantic  beauties  of  the  Three  Sister 
Islands. 

In  the  afternoon  take  the  still  more  beautiful  walk 
through  (lO.it  Island  to  the  entrance  to  the  stair.-case 
leading  to  the  Cave  of  the  Winds.  ^^)^  will  there  be 
furnished  with  a  guide  and  an  oil-skin  suit,  and  descend 
the  stair-case  and  follow  the  bank  to  the  Lunar  Falls, 
under  which  is  situate  the  Cave  of  the  Winds. 

There  is  no  more  exciting  and  e.\hilarating  excur- 
sion to  be  made  at  the  I'alls  than  that  through  the  Cave 

19 


I    ii 


of  the  Wind^.  Nowhere  else  arc  the  rainbow  hues 
exhibited  in  such  woruicrfiil  variety,  nor  in  siuh  sur- 
passing brilliancy  and  beauty.  Raiiiuow- spray,  r.iin- 
bow-(hist,  and  sh.Ulered  rainbows  are  scattered  arouiul ; 
rainbow-bars,  and  an  lies,  hori/nntal  and  perpendicular, 
are  Hashing;  and  forming,  breaking  and  re-forming 
around  anil  above  in  the  most  fant.isiic  and  delightful 
confusion.  The  young  husband  may  literally  pl.ne his 
charming  bride  in  a  living  sparkling  r.iinbow  frame, 
flecked  all  over  with  diamonds  and  pearU. 

Let  us  now  describe  the  cxpcricni-e  more  in  detail. 
Descend  the  sloping  bank  to  the  Lower  l''i.shing  Rock 
—  as  a  limestone  mass,  at  the  1  iwest  point  of  the  island 
shore,  is  called  —  from  whence  the  best  vi'jw  of  the 
American  Falls  is  presented,  that  can  be  anywhere  ob- 
tained, unless,  perhaps,  from  the  river  directly  in  front 
of  it.  The  whole  beautiful  cascade 
hangs  like  a  Hashing  curtain  of 
shifting  snow-wreath-i  before  you, 
waving  in  fleecy  folds,  and  pillared 
by  downy  columns  of  the  softest, 
clearest  white  ;  around  and  overall 
of  which  a  genial  glory  seems  to  float,  bright  and  pure 
as  the  hope  and  faith  of  an  angel-choir.  The  scene  is 
lovely  beyond  all  conception.  Nothing  on  earth  can 
compare  in  that  respect  with  the  American  Kail,  as  seen 
from  this  spot.  Vast  as  it  is,  you  do  not  observe  its  size  ; 
lofty  as  it  is,  you  take  no  note  of  its  height ;  august  as 
it  is,  you  scarcely  perceive  its  grandeur ;  —  its  surpassing 
loveliness,  and  transcendant  beauty  alone  seem  to  en- 
gage your  attention.  Finally,  however,  all  these  become 
blended  together,  and  you  begin  to  realize  the  majesty, 
as  well  as  the  loveliness,  the  sublimity,  as  well  as  the 
beauty  of  this  incomparable  cascade,  and  to  feel  that 
the  power  as  well  as  the  goodness  of  the  Divine  Archi- 
tect has  here  its  lasting  and  visible  impress.  Long  will 
that  glorious  scene  li\'e  in  our  memory,  hallowed  by  the 
recollection  of  a  holy  rapture,  and  an  earnest  worship 


VISIT  TO 

'CAVn  OF  THK 

WINDS." 


h 


SO 


"W^ 


re  the  rainbow  hues 
:;ty,  nor  in  suiii  sur- 
RaiiiDow- spray,  rain- 
are  scattcrril  arouiul  ; 
tal  aii<l  porpendiciilar, 
i<ini;  and  rc-forniin;^,' 
itastic  and  deii,;lilful 
may  literally  place  his 
kliiii;  rainbow  frame, 
id  pearls., 
rience  more  in  detail. 

Lower  l"i.shin){  Kock 
'est  point  of  liie  island 
the  best  vi'jw  of  the 

can  be  anywhere  ob- 

river  directly  in  front 
hole  beautiful  cascade 
I  Hashing  curt.iin  of 
•-wreaths  before  you, 
ecy  folds,  and  pillared 
ilumns  of  the  softest, 
2 ;  around  and  overall 

lloat,  bright  and  pure 
l-choir.  The  scene  is 
Sioihins  ""  earth  can 
American  Kail,  as  seen 
io  not  observe  its  size  ; 

its  height ;  august  as 
ideur ;  —  its  surpassing 
uty  alone  seem  to  en- 
vevcr,  all  these  become 
to  realize  the  majesty, 
)limity,  as  well  as  the 
cade,  and  to  feel  that 
;s  of  the  Divine  Archi- 
le  impress.  Long  will 
niory,  hallowed  by  the 
id  an  earnest  worship. 


s 


Re-ascend  the  sloping  bank  to  the  Central  Fall,  and 
the  Cave  of  the  Wimli  is  b.  fore  you.  At  the  entrance 
you  p.iuse  to  look  up  at  the  projecting  clilf,  ;ind  the 
sparkling  torrent  tli.it  shoots  off  far  above,  falling  far 
over,  and  far  below  you  ;  and  down  at  the  piles  of  rock 
heaped  up  around,  and  the  foam  and  spray  springing 
to  ligli*  ;ind  lovcliiitss  from  the  rock-w.ive  concussion. 
The  miKliiiest  throes  give  liirih  to  the  most  beautiful 
things;  and  thus  the  r.iinbow  was  born  of  the  <leluge. 
\'()U  ;iie  on  the  sti  ps  ckscciKhiig  into  the  cavern. 
The  m;ljc^ty,  the  siibli:nity  of  the  scene  cinnot  esc.ipe 
your  notice,  and  you  will  fed  wli.it  I  liiid  it  impossible 
to  e.xjiress.  A  wall  of  rock  rises  frowning  on  one  side  ; 
the  falling  sheet  arches  the  other.  You  .see  it  leap 
friim  ill-;  cliff  far  .iliove,  and  l.isli  the  rocks  f,ir  below. 
\du  stem  betv.een  iwu  eternities,  with  a  great  mystery 
before  you,  whose  secrets  .ire  about  to  be  revealed. 
\Vh;it  a  moment  is  this!  From  the  v.ist  cavern  into 
which  you  are  passing  coines  the  sound  of  a  thousand 
storms.  You  hear  the  mad  winds  raiding  around  the 
w.ills  of  their  imprisonment,  and  mingling  their  fearful 
roar  with  the  reverberating  thunders  of  the  cataract. 
The  spray  falls  thick  around  you  ;  almost  overpowered 
with  intense  emotion,  you  hasten  on,  descend  the  steps, 
rcu  h  the  bottom,  instinctively  retire  from  the  rushing 
waters,  and,  having  gained  the  centre  and  b.ick  of  the 
cave,  pause  to  lock  around.  You  seem  all  eyes,  all 
ears,  all  soul.  You  are  in  the  sublime  sanctuary  of 
nature  ;  her  wonderful  and  fearful  mysteries  are  above, 
beneath,  and  around  you.  God  is  Infinite,  you  are 
nothing.  This  is  His  temple,  you  are  His  worshiper. 
It  is  impossible  in  such  a  place  to  be  irreverent.  •  The 
proudest  here  is  meek  ;  the  haughtiest,  humble ;  and 
the  loftiest,  lowly. 

Between  the  Central  and  American  Falls,  and  at 
the  foot  of  Luna  Island,  there  is  a  narrow  vacant 
space,  bounded  and  almost  overarched  by  the  tumbling 
torrent,  from  which  grand  views  are  presented  of  these 


'|(,r^ 


31 


-J*#'V. 


two  cascades  —  that  of  the  latter  is  particularly  fr.ie. 
Here  yuu  may  rest  yourself,  or  ramhle  over  the  huge 
rocks,  in  the  pure  air,  with  the  bright  river  and  the 
blessed  sky  before  you,  and  the  dark  rock  above,  and 
then  pass  under  the  American  sheet  as  far  as  you 
desire,  or  dare.  It  is  a  frightful  place,  overu  helming 
in  its  gloom,  grandeur,  and  sublimity  ;  and  there  be  few 
who  have  ventured  far,  though  it  is  supposed  possible 
to  pass  quite  through  and  under  the  whole  vast  cas- 
cade. 

THURSDAY. 

In  the  morning  visit  the  upper  end  of  doat  or  Iris 
Island  taking  with  you  an  interesting  and  inspiring 
book,  alternately  reading  and  sight-seeing  until  noon. 

You  see  tne  broad  river  spread  out  befcre  you  like 
a  shining  sea,  with  .Schlosser  on  the  left,  Chippewa 
far  off  to  the  right,  and  (Irand, 
Navy,  and  other  islands  in  the 
diiii  liistance  above.  It  was  here, 
and  near  the  old  log  upon  which 
you  are  ,)robably  now  sitting,  that 
visitors  to  Iris  Island  were  landed 
from  boats,  before  the  bridge  was  built.  Such  was  then 
the  only  mode  of  reaching  it,  and  the  passage  required 
great  care,  skill,  and  exertion,  and  was,  of  course, 
expensive.  The  island  was  therefore,  at  that  time,  a 
terra  tncogiiila  to  most  persons  —  an  unattainable  ob- 
ject of  intense  desire.  They  could  see  that  it  was 
beautiful,  that  it  presented  grand  views  of  the  sub- 
lime cataract  they  had  come  from  afar  to  behold  ;  but 
alas  I  they  could  not  set  foot  upon  its  velvet  surface, 
repose  beneath  its  shady  groves,  nor  witness  from  its 
banks  the  marvelous  glories  that  clustered  around 
it,  and  in  the  midst  of  which  it  so  sweetly  slumbered. 
Happy  traveler !  you  can  pass  when  you  please,  see  all 
that  it  iias  to  reveal,  and  ramble  over  and  about  it  at 
your  leisure. 


VISIT  TO 

HHAD    OF    GOAT 

ISLAND. 


ter  is  particularly  trie, 
ramhle  over  the  huge 
2  bright  river  and  the 
;  dark  rock  above,  and 
1  sheet  as  far  as  you 
il  place,  overuheiniing 
tnity  ;  and  there  be  few 
it  is  supposed  possible 
er  the  whole  vast  cas- 


y. 

er  end  of  doat  or  Iris 
cresting  and  inspiring 
tjht-secing  until  noon. 
id  out  befcre  you  like 
on  the  left,  Chippewa 
the  right,  and  (Irand, 

other  islands  in  the 
:e  above.  It  was  here, 
he  old  log  upon  which 
)bably  now  sitting,  that 
Iris  Island  were  landed 
s  built.  Such  was  then 
d  the  passage  required 

and  was,  of  course, 
:refore,  at  that  time,  a 
i  —  an  unattainable  ob- 
:ould  see  that  it  was 
ind  views  of  the  sub- 
mi  afar  to  behold  ;  but 
pon  its  velvet  surface, 
s,  nor  witness  from  its 
that   clustered   around 

so  sweetly  slumbered. 
I'hen  you  please,  see  all 
e  over  and  about  it  at 


"* 


In  the  afternoon  procr^d  down  llie  street  leading  to 
IVospect  Park  and  jr.st  ;it  the  entrance  by  the  soldiers' 
monument  turn  to  the  right  and  in  a  moment  you  will 
reach  the  new  Suspension  Bridge.  Mr.  W.  D.  Howells 
has  so  well  described  the  view  here  that  it  will  bear 
repetition.  Read  it  as  you  stand  on  the  bridge.  You 
will  find  it  just,  adequate,  and  true.     I  lere  it  is  : 

"  Over  the  river,  so  still  with  its  oily  eddies  and  deli- 
cate wreaths  of  foam,  just  below  the  Falls  they  have 
woven  a  web  of  wire  high  in  air  and  hung  a  bridge 
from  precipice  to  precipice.  Of  all  the  bridges  made 
with  hands  it  seems  the  lightest,  most  ethereal ;  it  is 
ideally  graceful  and  droops  from  its  slight  towers  like  a 
garland.  It  is  worthy  to  command  the  whole  gran- 
deur of  Niagara  and  to  show  the  traveler  the  vast 
spectacle,  with  all  the  awful  pomp  of  the  rapids,  the 
solemn  darkness  of  the  wooded 
islands,  the  mystery  oi  tlvi  vapor- 
ous gulf,  the  indomitable  wild- 
ness  of  the  shores,  as  far  as  the 
eye  can  reach  up  or  down  the 
fatal  stream.     'I'he  last  hues  of 

sunset  lingered  in  the  mists  that  sprung  from  the  base 
of  the  Falls  with  a  mournful  tremulous  grace  and  a 
movement  weird  as  the  play  of  the  northern  lights. 
They  were  touched  with  the  most  delicate  purples  and 
crimsons  that  darkened  to  deep  red  and  then  faded 
from  them  on  a  second  look  and  they  Hew  upward, 
swiftly  upward,  like  troops  of  pale  transparent  ghosts  ; 
while  a  perfectly  clear  radiance  dwelt  upon  the  scene. 
Far  under  the  bridge  the  river  smoothly  swam,  the 
under  currents  smoothly  unfolding  themselvts  with  a 
vast  rose  like  evolution  edged  all  round  with'  faint 
lines  of  white,  where  the  air  that  filled  the  water  freed 
itself  in  foam.  What  had  buen  clear  green  on  the  face 
of  the  cataract  was  here  more  like  rich  verd-aniique 
and  had  a  look  of  firmness  almost  like  that  of  stone 
itself.     In  front  where  tumbled  rocks  and  expanses  of 


view  from 
m:w  suspension 

BKIDGP. 


23 


tv 


1 


naki.d  clay  varied  the  gloomier  and  gayer  green,  sprung 
those  spectra!  mists;  and  throuk;h  i.ietu  loomed  out 
in  its  manifold  majesty  Nia^;ara,  vvi:h  the  seemingly 
immovable  white  (".othic  screen  of  the  Americ:m  Fall 
and  the  green  massive  curve  of  the  Horseshoe,  solid 
and  simple  and  calm  as  an  Egyptian  wall;  while  be 
yond  this,  with  their  white  and  black  exjianses  broken 
by  dark  foliageil  little  isles,  the  steep  Canadian  rapids 
billowed  themselves  down  between  their  heavily  wooded 
shores.  The  wedding  journeyers  hung,  they  knew 
not  how  long,  in  rapture  on  the  sight." 

Tiie  expense  of  crossing  over  and  back  for  each  per- 
son is  25  cents,  and  when  on  the  Canadian  side,  turn  to 
the  left,  up  li'.e  river  bank  and  in  a  few  steps  you  are 
in  the  Queen  X'ictoria  Jubilee  Park,  extending  from  the 
upper  Suspension  Hridge  to  far  above  the  Horseshoe 
Fall.     This  park  is  entirely  free,  and  is  the  property  of 

the  Canadian   government.      It 

QUEI2N    VICTORIA       j^  thus  described  in  the  oliicial 

JUBILKH  PARK.         pamphlet    issued    by   the    park 

commissioners : 
The  Queen  Victoria  Niagara  FaHs  I'ark  covers  an 
area  of  about  i  54  acres.  It  extends  along  the  western 
bank  of  the  Niagara  a  distance  of  2 '^  miles  ;  the  width 
embraces  all  the  land  lying  between  the  water's  edge 
and  the  steep  wooded  bluff,  which  forms  a  magnificent 
natural  bouiidary  on  the  west.  Midway  between  the 
two  ends  there  is  ,-  'l:,ely  wooded  island,  whose  shores 
wage  never-ceasmg  conllict  with  the  impetuous  waters, 
a  moment  before  they  plunge  into  the  abyss.  From  the 
pathway  on  this  (Cedar)  island  good  views  arc  obtained 
of  the  whole  reach  of  ilie  rapids  above  the  cataract. 
Near  the  southern  '■nd  of  ilie  park,  nestling  in  a  deep 
indentation  of  the  shore,  is  a  group  of  islands,  re-namtd 
in  honor  of  Lord  Duffeiin,  which  are  wondrou^lv  beau- 
tiful. Pretty  rustic  bridges  connect  these  islJts.  atul 
sylvan  rambles  .-md  bowers  have  been  provided  so  that 
visitors  may  enjoy  nature,  in  some  of  its  most  charming 


24 


nd  gayer  jjreen,  spnin.s^ 
iii;h  l.ietn  loomed  out 
a,  wi:h  the  seemiii,i;,dy 
of  the  Aineric:in  Fall 
f  the  Horseshoe,  solid 
y'lnian  wall ;  while  be 
ilack  exjianses  broken 
steep  Canadian  rapids 
;n  their  heavily  wooded 
."rs  huny;,  they  knew 
li-ht." 

and  back  for  each  per- 
Canadian  side,  turn  to 
n  a  few  steps  yoia  are 
rk,  extendinij  from  the 
above  the  Horseshoe 
and  is  the  property  of 
Han  government.  It 
scribed  in  the  official 
issued  by  the  park 
ners : 

FaHs  I'ark  covers  an 
111  Is  aloni,'  the  western 
[  2, '2  miles;  the  width 
veen  the  water's  edge 
h  forms  a  magnificent 
Midway  between  the 
i  island,  whose  shores 
the  impetuous  waters, 
)  the  abyss.  From  the 
)od  views  arc  obtained 
s  above  the  cataract. 
irk,  nestling  in  a  deep 
p  of  islands,  re-namtd 
are  wondrouNly  beaii- 
nect  these  isluts,  and 
been  provided  so  that 
;  of  its  most  charming 


forms,  with  comfort  and  ease.  Between  Cedar  Island 
and  the  Duffetin  Islands,  the  Grand  Rapids  drive  affords 
a  continuous  view  of  the  tumbling  waters  as  they  leap 
from  ledge  to  lecigc  down  the  55  or  56  feet  of  descent, 
between  the  level  of  smooth  water  and  the  crest  of  the 
great  fall.  Altogether  this  is  one  of  the  most  impres- 
sive sights  to  be  had.  and  is  second  only  to  the  views 
of  the  great  cataract  itself.  A  fine  commanding  view 
is  obtained  from  the  top  of  the  bluffs,  beyond  the  Duf- 
ftrin  Islands,  termed  "Prospect  Drive;"  it  is  well 
worth  visiting,  as  from  it  you  overlook  the  whole  sweep 
of  the  river  from  Navy  Island  to  tjie  gorge  below  tin- 
falls.  The  immediate  locality  of  the  falls  is  remarkable 
for  the  richness  of  its  llora,  and  many  hundreds  of  vari- 
eties of  flowering  and  fern-like  plants,  growing  without 
cultivation,  are  to  be  found  within  the  limits  of  the 
park. 

All  along  the  bank  of  the  river  from  the  Bridge 
toward  I'able  Rock  the  best  and  grandest  of  all  the 
upper  views  of  the  Falls  is  presented. 

The  eye  here  grasps  at  a  glance  the  whole  mighty 
measure  of  the  cataract;  and  Niagara  in  ail  its  beauty 
and  glory,  in  all  its  majesty  and  immensity,  is  spanned 
by  a  single  look.  It  is  before  you,  revealed  in  all  its 
grandeur  and  extent,  in  all  its  splendor  and  sublimity. 
You  stand  entranced  and  spell-bound.  Amazement 
and  admiration  are  in  your  gaze  ;  awe  and  reverence 
in  your  soul.  It  is  a  scene  to  linger  on,  and  long  you 
linger,  turning  ofter,  away  to  rest  the  eye,  and  relieve 
the  mind,  atitl  as  often  recurring  to  it 
v.ith  increased  wonder  and  interest.  VIKVV  I  RO.W 
But  at  length  you  pass  on,  with  it  still 
in  your  eye  and  mind,  to  Table  Rock, 
which  at  length  you  reach.  The  view  of  the  Horseshoe 
Fall  from  this  point  is  indeed  magnificent. 

No  wonder  that  the  scene  from  Table  Rock  has 
been  lauded  and  extolled.     Xo  wonder  that  it  has  been 


TABLE  ROCK. 


il 


25 


the  ultiiiHi  ilnih  of  many  a  long  and  weary  pilijrimage. 
It  is  all  that  has  bi  en  said  of  it,  and  inlinitely  more  — 
words  cannot  convey  an  idea  of  its  unearthly  sublimity 
and  grandeur.  The  sea  of  rapieis  leaping  and  tossing 
above ;  the  vast  breadth  and  depth  of  the  iiging 
stream;  the  impetuous  rush  of  the  ocean-torrent;  the 
awful  plunge  of  the  prodigious  volume;  the  tremen- 
dous concussion,  heard  and  felt,  but  not  seen  from  the 
covering  mists  that  envelop  and  hide  the  crushing 
appulsion  of  the  meeting  masses ;  the  pointed  spear- 
shaped  jets  that  shoot  up  from  the  convulsed  bosom  of 
the  heaving  ar,d  surij;ing  abyss ;  the  multitudinous 
whirling,  shifting,  convolving  clouds  of  spray  and 
vapor  that  roll  heavily  up  and  load  the  unresting  air ; 
the  dark,  threatening  cliffs  that  shut  in  the  vexed  and 
foam-covered  accumulation  of  floods,  in  the  angry  gulf 
below;  the  resplendent  glories  shed  over  all  by  the 
burning  sun,  tinting  with  gorgeous  colors  the  sheet,  the 
stream,  and  the  spray,  wreathing  with  rainbow  hues 
the  tleecy  and  emerald  robes  of  the  grand  cascade  and 
arching  the  fearful  chasm  with  a  zone  of  brightness  and 
beauty;  the  wild  hoarse  roar  of  the  mad  rapids,  and 
tiie  deep  booming  thunders  of  the  cloud-compelling 
cataracts — these,  and  a  thousand  other  collateral  and 
subordinate  features,  combine  to  form  a  scene  whieii 
appalls  and  confounds  the  observer,  while  it  attracts 
and  rivets  his  wrapt  and  eager  gaze.  God  of  Omnip- 
otence !  this  wonder  is  Thy  work  ;  the  very  ground  is 
holy  with  Thy  presence  !  This  you  feel  —  must  feel  — 
though,  perhaps,  you  do  nut  speak  it.  Crowding  emo- 
tions swell  the  bosom  ;  thoughts  that  defy  utterance  fill 
the  mind.  The  power  and  presence  of  the  Almighty 
seem  fearfully  manifest.  You  gaze,  and  tremble  as  you 
gaze! 

Table  Rock  is  on  the  same  level  with  the  Fall,  and 
is  a  continuation  of  the  ledge  or  strata  from  which  the 
torrent-flood  is  precipitated.  It  projects  over  the  bank 
and  beyond  the  curve  of  the  cascade  to  a  considerable 


26 


»  "^iv- i-?^ev,t-£.=;  ^-^-aj 


- -^^S5%i  J -ji  ^",  as:^ -^ -i^  uPuj 


J  and  weary  piljjrimage. 
,  and  iiilinitely  more  — 

its  unearthly  sublimity 
ids  leaping  and  tossing 

depth   of    the   iaying 

the  ocean-torrent;  the 
5  volume;  the  tremcn- 
,  but  not  seen  from  the 
md  hide  the  crushing 
es ;  the  pointed  spear- 
the  convulsed  bosom  of 
ss ;    the  multitudinous 

clouds  of  spray  and 
load  the  unresting  air  ; 
.  shut  in  the  vexed  and 
loods,  in  the  angry  gulf 
i  shed  over  all  by  the 
ius  colors  the  sheet,  the 
ing  with  rainbow  hues 

the  grand  cascade  and 
I  zone  of  brightness  and 
3f  the  mad  rapids,  and 
[  the  cloud-compelling 
nd  other  collateral  and 
to  form  a  scene  which 
lerver,  while  it  attracts 
gaze.  God  of  Omnip- 
rk  ;   the  very  ground  is 

you  feel  —  must  feel  — 
eak  it.  Crowding  emo- 
;s  that  defy  utterance  fill 
esence  of  the  Almighty 
aze,  and  tremble  as  you 

level  with  the  Fall,  and 
ir  strata  from  which  the 
t  projects  over  the  bank 
iscade  to  a  considerable 


distance,  and  from  this  circumstance  derives  its  name, 
having  in  some  respects  a  tabular  aspect.  Creep  to 
the  edge  and  look  down —  the  sensation  is  awful. 
There  is  nothing  but  the  invisible  and  imponderable 
air  between  the  thin  leaf-like  crag  which  supports  you 
and  the  massy  blocks  of  limestone  that  lay  concen- 
trated more  than  one  hundred  feet  beneath,  where  they 
have  fallen  from  the  dizzy  elevation  whence  you  look, 
and  been  rent  and  scattered  by  the  shock.  There  is  a 
strange  and  indefinable  fascination  in  the  terrible 
depth  that  confronts  you, 

"  Charming  the  eye  with  dread  ;  " 

and  it  requires  an  effort  to  withdraw  from  that  horrible 
verge  of  danger  and  death. 


TRIP  UNDER 

THE  CANADIAN 

FALLS. 


Having  now  admired  the  scene  for  sufficient  length 
of  time  to  desire  reluctantly  to  abandon  it,  and  resolv- 
ing to  return  again,  proceed  a  short 
distance  above  Table  Rock,  when 
you  will  be,  if  you  desire,  accom- 
modated with  guide  and  suit  tc  go 
in  under  the  Canadian  Falls. 

You  soon  arrive  at  the  misty, 
spray-washed  entrance  to  the  cavern,  which  it  is  your 
purpose  to  explore.  Here  you  pause  to  enjoy  a  most 
sublime  view  of  the  cataract,  and  particularly  of  the 
Horseshoe  Fall,  which  comes  thundering  down,  above 
and  before  you,  stretching  far  away  to  the  left  in  its 
huge  and  awful  proportions.  Another,  and  in  some 
respects,  a  better  view  of  the  same  grand  spectacle,  is 
seen  from  the  river  margin  to  which  you  descend. 

From  this  point,  more  than  any  other,  you  appear 
to  realize  the  vast  height  of  the  precipice,  and  the  pro- 
digious weight  and  impulsion  of  the  torrent.  It  seems 
a  god-hurled  flood,  and  you  an  insect  atom,  scarce  be- 
yond its  rush.  Tremendous  in  its  force,  immense  in 
its  extent,  appalling  in  its  sublimity,  the  vast  cascade 


V^ 


.:^Ai; 


iJI' 


!' 

,1, 


27 


confounds  and  terrifies  you.  while  it  holds  your  gaze 
with  a  charm  you  can  neither  comprehend  nor  break. 
A  dread  indelinable  divinity  is  in  and  upon  it,  which 
compels  your  adoration  of  Him  who  piled  the  rock, 
and  heaved  the  Hood  that  made  Niagara,  and  made  it 
speak  of  Him,  through  every  sense  of  power  and  beauty, 
to  mind  and  soul.  There  is  a  god-ness  in  the  scene, 
that  is  felt  in  every  fibre,  but  cannot  be  expresr-ed.— 
that  infinitely  expands  the  soul,  wiiich  is  yet  too  small 
•■.o  grasp  its  dim  outline  even, —  that  crowds  the  mind 
with  august  thoughts  and  emotions,  which  struggle 
for  utterance,  but  which  the  heart  only  can  tell  to  its 
Creator  in  the  silent  eloquence  of  worship. 

Of  all  views  of  Niagara,  this  is  the  most  impres- 
sive ;  and,  were  there  no  other,  it  would  seem  inexplic- 
able from  whence  these  unintermitted  and  immeasur- 
able floods  could  proceed,  which  appear  literally  to  fall 
from  the  heavens.  From  this  scene,  tearing  yourself 
away,  you  regain  the  top  of  the  sloping  bank,  and  im- 
patient to  attain  the  penetralia  of  nature's  hidden  mys- 
teries, essay  the  passage  behind  the  sheet.  The  winds 
howl  around  you;  —  the  spray  dashes  in  your  face 
with  blinding  and  almost  suffocating  force.  You  can 
scarcely  see,  scarcely  breathe ;  but  the  supporting  hand 
of  the  guide,  and  his  encouraging  voice  sustain  and 
re-assure  you.  With  hasty  but  careful  steps  you  pass 
on,  and  are  in  a  moment  more,  at  your  journey's  end, 
and  can  both  see  and  breathe  more  freely.  The  spray 
still  showers  upon  you,  but  with  diminished  force  and 
density ;  and  you  looic  around,  above,  below.  What 
a  fearful  place  !  what  an  imposing  scene  !  unutterable 
awe  is  the  first,  and  for  some  seconds  the  on  / 
emotion. 

You  stand  upon  a  narrow  ledge,  scarce  three  feet 
wide,  and  gaze  with  intense  interest  up  ninety  feet  at 
the  meeting  arches  of  rock  and  water;  and  down 
seventy  feet  at  a  steep  precipice,  and  a  flashing  sheet, 
which  are  lost  to  view  in  the  rising  mists.     You  see 


28 


■  j---'iB--AOin-'  t  -j^^. 


•-  i'i^^ii^  ^1^Sr5<*Kitec= 


T 


le  it  holds  your  gaze 
mprelicnd  nor  break. 
1  and  upon  it,  wliich 

who  piled  the  rock, 
Niagara,  and  made  it 
e  of  power  and  beauty, 
od-ness  in  tiie  scene, 
mnot  be  expresr,e(l.— 
wliich  is  yet  too  small 
that  crowds  the  mind 
itions,  which  struggle 
rt  only  can  tell  to  its 
f  worship. 

i  is  the  most  impres- 
t  would  seein  inexplic- 
nitted  and  immeasur- 
appear  literally  to  (all 
cene,  tearing  yourself 
sloping  bank,  and  im- 
f  nature's  hidden  mys- 
the  sheet.     The  winds 

dashes  in  your  (acp 
iting  force.  You  can 
ut  the  supporting  hand 
ing  voice  sustain  and 
careful  steps  you  pass 
It  your  journey's  end, 
ore  freely.  The  spray 
I  diminished  force  and 
above,  below.  What 
ng  scene !  unutterable 
le    seconds    the   on/ 

dge,  scarce  three  feet 
rest  up  ninety  feet  at 
nd  water;  and  down 
,  and  a  flashing  sheet, 
ising  mists.     You  see 


the  mighty  torrent  roll  off  the  cliffs  above  your  head, 
and  plunge  wiih  a  li<liining  rapidity,  down  the  dark 
profound.  Yiui  cannot  see  the  strife  between  fall  and 
flood  —  the  ni.id  milue  of  many  waters;  —  but  you 
hear  the  sound  of  the  battliii;j  elements,  and  you  feel 
that  the  struggle  is  tt  rri^x-.  Such  sights  !  such  sounds  ! 
—  The  eye  aches ;  the  ear  Is  pained.  Hut  there  is  a 
dreadful  fascination  in  the  place:  —  the  eye  looks 
eagerly,  though  it  aches ;  and  the  ear  is  pleased  with 
that  which  pains  it. 

An  inviting  extent  of  cavern,  dim,  misty,  and  inde- 
finable, is  before  you.  You  long  to  explore  it,  and 
advance  a  step,  when  the  guide,  catching  your  arm, 
assures  you  that  you  stand  upon  the  extremity  of  Ter- 
mination Rock,  and  that,  though  it  is  possible  to  make 
your  way  a  few  feet  further,  the  attempt  would  be  at 
the  hazard  of  your  life.  Reluctantly  you  abandon  the 
hope  of  diving  still  deeper  into  the  shadowy  recesses 
of  that  terribly  attractive  cavern,  and  survey  with  a 
closer  scrutiny  the  vaulted  hall  in  which  you  stand. 
Ragged,  iiniiending,  and  seamed  with  fissures,  the 
arching  rock  above  you  appears  to  be  on  the  point  of 
crumbling  beneath  the  weight  of  the  superincumbent 
flood.  Massy  fragments,  held  by  no  visible  support, 
seem  almost  in  the  act  of  falling,  and  you  can  hardly 
persuade  yourself  that  danger  is  not  imminent  and 
destruction  at  hand.  Hut  the  reflection  that  thousands 
and  thousands  of  persons  have  passed  under  them, 
back  and  forth,  with  impunity,  inspires  you  with  cour- 
age, and  you  scan,  but  with  a  throbbing  pulse  and  a 
heaving  bosom,  the  wonders  and  glories  by  which  you 
are  surrounded. 

The  living  deluge  that  bursts  from  the  trembling 
crag  above  you,  and  flashing  by  is  scarcely  seen  ere  it 
thunders  up  from  the  gulf  below,  seems  to  make  an 
eternal  present  of  both  past  and  future,  by  its  lightning 
rush  and  ceaseless  flow.  Omnipotence  mingling  infini- 
ties, dashing  down  the  flood,  lifting   the  spray,  and 


39 


■':m 


-^<t 


gV' 


I 


swelling  the  sound,  pervades  the  place  with  His  pres- 
ence, and  dfcpcns  the  awe  it  inspires.  Hut  any 
attempt  to  descrihe  tiie  slights,  sounds,  or  sensations 
produced  by  tiiis  transcendent  scene  must  be  vaiti,  and 
worse  than  vain ;  and  I  Itave  you  "amid  these  vast  and 
eternal  workings  of  gigantic  N.iture "  to  commune 
with  Him,  "whom  Nature's  self  obeys,"  and  remain  or 
emerge  at  will, 

FJl/DA  y. 

Taking  your  lunch  with  you  proceed  to  the  New 
York  Central  depot,  and  at  9,  or  10,  or  11  o'clock  — 
for  the  train  runs  every  hour  —  take  the  trip  to  Lewis- 
ton  by  train,  and  to  Fort  Niagara  on  the  steamer,  and 
return  in  time  for  dinner  in  the  evening.  The  expense 
of  the  entire  trip  is  but  50  cents.  It  is 
TRIP  TO        replete  with  interest,  beauty  and  grand- 

1  EWISTON.      ^"'''  "^"^  '•''  '"  ^^^'^'^^  "i  comi)lete  view  of 
lower  Niagara,  from  the  cataract  to  Lake 
Ontario.     Well  may  one  exclaim  ; 

"  Majestic  stre.im  I  what  river  rivals  thee,  ' 

Thou  cliiUl  of  many  lakes  and  sire  of  one  — 
Lakes  that  claim  kindred  with  the  all-circling  sea  — 
Large  at  thy  birth  as  when  thy  race  is  run  : 
Against  what  great  obstructions  hast  thou  won 
Thine  august  way  —  the  rock-formed  mountain-plain 
Has  opened  at  t"iy  bidding,  and  the  steep 
Bars  not  thy  f  .ssage,  for  the  ledge  in  vain 
Stretches  across  the  channel  —  thcu  dost  leap 
Sublimely  down  the  height,  and  urge  again 
Thy  rock-embattled  course  on  to  the  distant  main." 

Niagara  River  is,  indeed,  in  its  whole  course,  quite 
in  keeping  with  the  stupendous  cataract  from  which  its 
principal  interest  is  derived.  There  is  nothing  insig- 
nificant, nothing  paltry,  nothing  common-place  about 
it,  from  the  lake  in  which  its  vast  floods  have  birth,  to 
that  which  they  supply.  It  is  everywhere  grand, 
mighty,  and  majestic.    When  spread  to  the  dimensions 


} 


30 


;  place  with  His  pres- 
t  insi-ires.  Hut  any 
sounds,  or  sensations 
"ene  must  be  vain,  and 
1  "amid  these  vast  and 
N'.iture  "  to  commune 
obeys,"  and  remain  or 


proceed  to  the  New 
)r  ID,  or  1 1  o'clock  — 
take  tile  trip  to  Lewis- 
a  on  the  steamer,  and 
:vening.    Tlie  expense 

is  but  50  cents.  It  is 
est,  beauty  and  grand- 
ect  a  com|)lete  view  of 
im  the  cataract  to  Lake 
1 : 

als  thee,  » 

sire  of  one  — 

he  all-circling  sea  — 

race  is  run  ; 

i  hast  thou  won 

irmed  mountain-plain 

I  the  steep 

dge  in  vain 

hou  dost  leap 

i  urge  again 

o  the  distant  main." 

:s  whole  course,  quite 
cataract  from  which  its 
here  is  nothing  insig- 
;  common-place  about 
It  floods  have  birth,  to 
s  everywhere  grand, 
)read  to  the  dimensions 


-«'  » 


>  ^ 


of  a  little  sra,  it  \\:\%  no  rMrnihlamt;  to  a  slioal ;  ;..hI 
when  c'()iitta(  ted  Id  the  brtMilili  of  a  crcik,  it  srcms  to 
possess  tlie  power  of  an  oci-an.  Tiie  very  interrup- 
tions it  meets  with  in  its  way,  seciiicd  placfd  there 
only  to  fxiiibit  tiie  immensity  of  its  force.  Tlie  basin 
which  receives  its  ptddi^jioiis  far-fallin>j  volume,  re- 
sembles an  abyss  without  bounds  to  its  capacity;  the 
compressed  ch.anncl  through  which  it  tlicn  Hows,  seems 
to  have  opened  its  rock  nind  banks  to  ,in  im|)ris()ned 
sea,  that  would  have  bui.st  a  passage,  had  escajic  been 
denied. 

Making  a  sharp  an^le  at  the  ['"alls,  it  rolls  on 
through  beautiful  curves  in  an  almost  straight  direc- 
tion for  about  two  miles,  then  winds  gracefully  off  to 
the  left,  and  passing  through  a  succession  of  noble 
bends,  rushes,  wild,  impetuous,  and  unc(mtrollable, 
into  the  Whirlpool,  where,  like  a  baffled  Titan,  strug- 
gling with  his  bonds,  it  rages  ;uul  plunges  round  the 
impenetrable  b.irriers  that  hem  it  in;  .and  at  last,  hav- 
ing gathered  anew  its  mighty  energies,  rushes  he.-ullong 
on  in  a  fresh  direction,  and  bounds  away,  free,  fearless, 
and  triumphant. 

Continuing  in  its  new  course  —  having  turned  less 
than  a  right-angle  —  but  a  short  distance,  it  rolls  away 
gradually  to  the  west,  and  having  regained  its  former 
direction,  hurries  on,  inclining  now  to  the  right,  and 
again  bending  to  the  left,  here  maddened  by  restraint, 
and  there  soothed  by  expansion,  to  the  end  of  the 
mountain  plain,  from  the  gaping  jaws  of  which  it 
rushes  angrily  forth,  but  soon  recovering  the  serenity 
of  its  native  seas,  and  no  longer  chafed  or  enraged,  it 
Hows  ijuietly  and  smoothly  on,  through  gentle  curves 
and  wooing  banks,  to  the  sweet  lake  whose  soft 
embrace  it  has  come  so  far  and  encountered  so  nnich 
to  meet,  and  in  whose  peaceful  bosom  it  tinally  sinks 
to  repose. 

From  the  foot  of  the  mountain  ridge  to  Lakv?  Onta- 
rio nothing  can  be  more  lovely  than  this  river.     It  is  a 


,'« 


31 


HO! 


I 


T 


I, 


!: 


t  i 


rapture  to  look  upon  its  bright  and  tranquil  course.  It 
glides  along  so  silently  and  almost  imperceptibly,  its 
surface  is  so  calm  and  glassy,  its  breadih  so  uniform 
and  expansive,  its  water  so  clear  and  deep,  its  banks 
so  smooth  and  regular,  its  curvatures  so  gradual  and 
alternate,  its  whole  aspect  so  pleasing  and  harmonious, 
that  a  delicious  languor  steals  over  the  rnind,  the  spirit 
yields  itself  unconsciously  to  a  sweet  oblivion  of  turbu- 
lence and  strife,  and  its  contemplations  are  of  sunny 
skies,  shining  streams,  and  shady  groves.  The  eye 
lingers  with  delight  upon  the  blended  hues,  the  grace- 
ful turns,  and  emerald  shores  of  the  no  longer  agitated, 
but  now  beautiful,  Niagara;  and  the  soul,  at  peace 
with  itself,  with  nature,  and  with  all  things,  indulges 
in  a  dreaming  delirium  of  joy,  unshadowed  by  care, 
uniinged  with  gloom,  and  unbroken  by  tumult. 


SATURDAY. 

Take  your  lunch  with  you  and  then  enter  the  street 
cars,  which  start  directly  opposite  the    International 
Cafe,  at  the  Soldiers'  Monument,  and 
which  also  stop  opposite  the  Spencer 
House,  and  you  can  ride  to  the  lower 
Suspension  Bridge  for  5  cents.     Cross 
the  bridge  to  Canada  (over  and  return, 
25  cents),  and  you  can  easily  procure  a 
carriage  to  take  your  party  for  a  dollar 
to  the  Whirlpool.    The  cost  of  enter- 
ing the  enclosure  is  50  cents  per  person.    Remain  there 
all  the  morning.    You  will  find  the  time  all  too  short. 

In  the  af  .ernoon  pass  the  time  delightfully  until  sun- 
down at  tne  Whirlpool  Rapids  (entrance  to  enclosure 
and  down  the  inclined  railway,  50  cents).  Here  there 
are  lovely  walks  and  shady  bowers. 

Though  all  the  surrounding  country  may  be  melting 
in  fervid  heat  you  will  here  invariably  enjoy  a  delight- 
ful breeze  and  a  most  refreshing  coolness. 


THE 
WHIRLPOOL 

AND 

WHIRLPOOL 

RAPIDS. 


39 


and  tranquil  course.  It 
[most  imperceptibly,  its 
its  breadih  so  uniform 
:ar  and  deep,  its  banks 
vatures  so  gradual  and 
easing  and  harmonious, 
over  the  rnind,  the  spirit 
sweet  oblivion  of  turbu- 
mplations  are  of  sunny 
hady  groves.  The  eye 
)lended  hues,  the  grace- 
f  the  no  longer  agitated, 
ind  the  soul,  at  peace 
iih  all  things,  indulges 
',  unshadowed  by  care, 
oken  by  tumult. 

iV. 

id  then  enter  the  street 
osite  the  International 
jldiers'  Monument,  and 
p  opposite  the  Spencer 
u  can  ride  to  the  lower 
dge  for  5  cents.  Cross 
!anad;i  (over  and  return, 
/ou  can  easily  procure  a 
;  your  party  for  a  dollar 
ol.  The  cost  of  enter- 
r  person.  Remain  there 
the  time  all  too  short. 
e  delightfully  until  sun- 
(entrance  to  enclosure 
50  cents).  Here  there 
i'ers. 

:ountry  may  be  melting 
ariably  enjoy  a  delight- 
5  coolness. 


-*•     V 


\  •' 


The  river  at  the  Whirlpool,  makes  an  acute' angle 
in  its  course,  laming  abruptly  off  to  the  right,  behind 
the  cliff  upon  which  you  stand.  The  furious  torrent 
comes  thundering  and  foaming  into  this  great  basin ; 
and  its  currents  kept  away  from  the  place  of  egress 
by  the  mighty  rocks  upon  which  the  cliff  rests,  are 
forced,  by  their  prodigious  impulsion,  quite  across  the 
mouth  of  the  outlet;  and,  meeiing  the  opposite  bank, 
are  again  diverted  from  their  course ;  and,  curving  in- 
ward, are  carried  round  and  round  the  basin,  till  they 
are  drawn  down  in  the  centre,  driven  subterraneously 
far  forward,  and  finally  ejected  at  the  opening  below, 
where  they  boil  up,  and  bound  away  in  frightful  and 
tremendous  pluns;es. 

Nothing  that  has  life  floats  upon  this  chaos  of  con- 
vulsions; but  huge  timbers,  and  sometimes  dead 
bodies,  are  drawn  into  its  vortex,  and  carried  round  in 
cease'ess  gyrations  for  days,  and  even  weeks,  before 
they  escape  from  its  convolving  currents,  and  whirling 
eddies. 

From  the  height  whereon  you  stand  but  little  of 
the  terrible  agitation  and  wild  intumescence  of  the 
Whirlpool,  can  be  perceived  by  the  unassisted  eye. 
The  little  sticks  —  as  they  appear  to  be  —  which  you 
observe  whirling  and  tossing  about,  are  in  reality  large 
pieces  of  timber ;  as  by  the  aid  of  an  object  glass,  you 
will  become  convinced  and  be  also  enabled  to  realize 
something  more  of  the  grandeur  and  commotion  of 
this  strange  and  fearful  sea  of  imprisoned,  but  rebel- 
lious and  still  raging  floods. 

By  an  excellent  inclined  railway  you  descend  to  the 
base  of  the  cliff,  and  from  the  level  rocks  .below 
observe  the  wild  rush  and  whirl  of  the  mad  waters. 
The  rapids  above,  and  at  the  entrance  of  the  Whirl- 
pool, are  terribly  grand  and  striking.  The  huge  surges 
leap  and  plunge  with  prodigious  force  and  velocity; 
and  their  impulsion  is  so  great,  that  the  whole  mass  is 
heaved  up  at  the  centre  of  this  mighty  maelstrom,  to 


I  ( 


an  elevation   of   not  less  than    twelve   ft-tt  above  its 
outer  surface. 

Passing  round  to  the  right,  you  come  to  the  outlet 
of  this  tumultuous  sea,  and  behold  a  scene  of  surpas- 
sing grandeur.  Two  black  and  frowning  cliffs,  scarcely 
thirty  rods  apart,  rear  their  huge  and  giant  forms  to  a 
height  of  nearly  three  hundred  feet ;  and  there  stand, 
terrible  and  impending  —  the  mountain-sized,  rock- 
armed  guardians  of  this  maelstrom-portal.  The  es- 
caping torrents,  crowding  through  the  narrow  passage, 
and  hurrying  down  the  slope,  rush  forward  with  such 
inconceivable  rapidity  and  force,  that  the  middle  of  the 
gushing  volume  is  raised  much  higher  t'nan  the  side 
next  you,  which  is  smooth  and  glassy,  but  incredibly 
swift ;  and  the  bounding  surges  leap  away  in  sublime 
plunges  of  eight  or  ten  feet  high.  These  rapids  arc 
seen  to  much  better  advantage  from  the  opposite  side, 
as  they  are  nearest  that  shore,  and  indeed  dash  along 
the  huge  rocks  by  which  it  is  lined,  in  their  curveting 
and  uncontrollable  course. 

Nothing  that  comes  down  the  river  can  escape  be- 
ing drawn  into  the  Whirlpool,  as  the  current  is  carried 
quite  across  the  outlet,  and  turned  up  by  the  opposing 
bank.  Wave  urges  wave,  current  accelerates  current, 
billow  chases  billow,  and  there  they  revolve  round  and 
round,  till,  swallowed  in  one  place,  ejected  in  another, 
contending  here,  and  separating  there,  parting,  repos- 
ing, meeting,  mingling,  eddying,  plunging,  they  at  last 
plunge  in  the  deeps  of  the  abyss,  far  under  the  superin- 
cumbent mass,  and  thence  emerge  at  the  narrow  out- 
let, whence  they  hasten  away  in  the  mad  rapture  of 
niw-found  freedom,  to  seek  repose  in  the  quiet  bosom 
cf  the  distant  lake. 

It  is  utterly  impossible  to  describe  the  Whirlpool 
so  as  to  give  any  adequate  idea  of  its  grandeur  and 
sublimity.  Beauty  it  has  none, —  it  is  fearful,  terri- 
ble. There  is  not  a  winning  feature  about  it.  It 
is  solemn,  awful,  impressive ;   and,  as  a  great  natural 


\ 


34 


twelve    fett  above  its 

■ou  come  to  the  outlet 
lold  a  scene  of  surpas- 
rowning  cliffs,  scarcely 
;  and  giant  forms  to  a 
feet ;  anil  there  stand, 
moimtain-sized,  rock- 
trom-portal.  The  es- 
jh  the  narrow  passage, 
Lish  forward  with  such 

that  tiie  middle  of  the 
1  higher  t'lian  the  side 

glassy,  but  incredibly 
>  leap  away  in  sublime 
i^h.  These  rapids  are 
from  the  opposite  side, 
nd  indeed  dash  along 
ined,  in  their  curveting 

le  river  can  escape  be- 
s  the  current  is  carried 
led  up  by  the  opposing 
nt  accelerates  current, 
hey  revolve  round  and 
see,  ejected  in  another, 
[  there,  parting,  repos- 
,  plunging,  they  at  last 
,  far  under  the  superin- 
•ge  at  the  narrow  out- 
in  the  mad  rapture  of 
ose  in  the  quiet  bosom 

ascribe  the  Whirlpool. 
;a  of  its  grandeur  and 
e, —  it  is  fearful,  terri- 
feature  about  it.  It 
nd,  as  a  great  natural 


curiosity,  second  oniy  to  the  mighty  cataract  of 
Niagara. 

A  visit  to  the  Whirlpool  should  never  be  omitted. 
It  is  in  all  respects  totally  different  from  everytliin.,' 
about  the  Falls.  A  vast  unity  of  factious  and  warring 
entrgics,  shut  in  and  imprisoned  by  massy  and  cloud- 
reaching  barriers,  having  no  relation  or  likeness  to 
aught  else  in  the  material  world,  it  is  .ilone  in  its  solemn 
strangeness,  and  touches  no  chord  of  lunnan  syn^.pathy. 
The  only  emotions  it  excites  are  unmitigated  astonish- 
ment, and  inexplicable  awe;  —  such,  at  least,  was  its 
effect  uixin  the  writer. 

The  same  cause  that  makes  the  waters  in  the  basin 
below  the  Falls  rise  sometimes  so  quickly,  and  to  such 
a  height — contraction  of  the  channel  —  produces  a 
simil.ir  effect  in  this.  A  heavy  wind  down  the  lake, 
raising  ttie  river  one  or  two  feet,  causes  it  to  rise  there 
from  fifteen  to  twenty  feet,  and  in  the  Whirlpool  to 
nearly  the  same  height.  At  such  a  time,  when  it  has 
received  the  tribute  i,f  destruction,  and  planks,  timbers, 
trees,  and  it  may  be  boats,  and  tlead  bodies,  are  caught 
and  enveloped  in  its  tremendous  toils,  it  is  seen  in  its 
most  sublime  and  awful  aspect,  and  seems,  in  its  wild 
dtli.-ln,  a  living  but  imprisoned  desolation,  sporting 
with,  while  it  rends  its  prey,  and  yet  wearing  a  savage 
solcinniiy  of  countenance,  in  the  highest  degree  hideous 
and  appalling.  At  a  lower  stage  of  water,  its  currents, 
cavities,  eddies,  gyrations,  are  more  distinctly  marked, 
and  the  view,  though  less  striking,  is  perhaps  more  im- 
pressive. Seen  at  any  time,  and  seen  aright,  it  cannot 
fail  to  excite  astonishment,  and  fill  the  soul  with  awe. 

A  large  raft  of  timber  escaped  some  years  since 
from  its  fastenings  above  the  F'alls,  and  was  precipi- 
tated over  the  cataract.  The  disjoined  logs  were 
speedily  hurried  to  the  Whirlpool,  ni  which  they  re- 
mained for  a  number  of  weeks.  It  then  presented  a 
scene,  as  those  who  beheld  it  relate,  of  intense  and 
startling  interest.     Scattered  about  in  every  direction, 


35 


i  ' 


J 


they  were  to  be  r.een  in  all  attitudes,  and  from  listless 
inanity,  to  a  wonderful  life-likeness.  Some  were 
floating  on  the  glassy  surface,  others  riding  the  gentle 
swells,  some  careering  over  the  rolling  billows,  and 
again  others  leaping,  wrestling,  crashing,  plunging, 
flying,  following,  retreating,  pursuing,  shooting  up  high 
in  the  ai-,  diving  far  down  in  the  deep,  hiding  here, 
and  starting  up  tlicre,  as  if  a  mad  forest  of  trees,  riding 
these  infernal  surges,  l"^''  here  a  wild  inebriate  revel  — 
or  rather  as  if  the  moboi  waters,  seizing  these  immense 
weapons,  waged  intestine  war,  and  fought  one  another 
—  flood  threshing  flood,  and  suri,'e  goading  surge  with 
these  Titanic  war-clubs,  now  mingling  in  the  horrid 
melde  of  strife,  now  tiirown  far  apart,  and  again  rush- 
ing together,  implacable,  vindictive,  and  unrelenting. 
It  must  have  been  a  strange  and  fearful  scene. 

SUNDA  Y. 

Excellent  churches,  Episcopalian,  Presbyterian,  Meth- 
odist, and  Roman  Catholic  are  in  the  village,  and  as 
this  is  a  day  of  r^st,  no  trip  is  proposed.  Your  mind 
if  you  have  properly  studied  Niagara,  will  be  in  a  deeply 
reverei.tial  mood  and  you  will  be  prepared  to  say  of  the 
different  views  of  Niagara,  what  Thompson  in  his  beau- 
tiful hymn  says  of  the  seasons. 

These  as  they  change,  Almighty  Father,  these 
Are  but  the  varied  God  !  The  rolling  year 
Is  full  of  Thee.     Forth  in  the  pleasing  spring 
Thy  beauty  walks,  Thy  tenderness  and  love. 
Wide  flush  the  fields  :  the  softening  air  is  balm 
And  every  sense  and  evt.ry  heart  is  joy. 
Then  conies  Thy  glory  in  the  summer  months. 
Thy  bounty  shines  in  Autumn  unconfincd 
And  spreads  a  common  fea^st  for  all  that  lives. 
In  Winter,  awful  Tliou  !    With  clouds  and  storms 
Around  Tlieo  thrown,  tempest  o'er  tempest  rolled 
Majestic  daikne.ss  I  on  the  whirlwind's  wing 
Riding  sublir.ie,  Thou  bidst  the  world  adore. 


36 


rr. 


titudes,  and  from  listless 
;-likeneris.      Some  were 

others  riding  the  gentle 
the  rolling  billows,  and 
ng,  crashing,  plunging, 
irsuing,  shooting  up  high 
a  the  deep,  hiding  here, 
lad  forest  of  trees,  riding 
;  a  wild  inebriate  revel  — 
's,  seizing  these  immense 
,  and  fought  one  another 
urge  goading  surge  with 

mingling  in  the  horrid 
r  apart,  and  again  riish- 
lictive,  and  unrelenting, 
id  fearful  scene. 


lian,  Presbyterian,  Meth- 
5  in  the  village,  and  as 
proposed.  Your  mind 
agara,  will  be  in  a  deeply 
be  prepared  to  say  of  the 
t  Thompson  in  his  beau- 


:hty  Father,  these 
5  rolling  year 
e  pleasing  spring 
srness  and  love, 
ftening  air  is  balm 
?art  is  joy. 
;  siiniiiier  months, 
n  uiiconfincd 
for  all  that  lives, 
ith  clouds  and  storms 
St  o'er  tempest  rolled 
liirlwind's  wing 
he  world  adute. 


In  the  evening,  if  you  are  fortunate  enough  to  visit 
Niagara  during  the  full  moon,  it  will  surely  not  be 
impious  to  visit  Luna  Island  and  behold  the  scene 
spiritualized  by  the  lunar  bow. 

There  is  a  witching  loveliness  about  this  island  in 
the  soft  obscurity  of  e-'ening  that  cannot  fail  to  please ; 
and  a  solemn  grandc  •  in  the  cataract  at  night  that 
commands  reverence.  Then,  too,  imagination  holds 
her  undisputed  s\\  ay ;  but  the  half-concealnaent  that 
shrouds  every  object,  confines  her  to 
the  task  of  filling  up  the  shadowy  THE 

outline  of  the  vast  indistinct,  that  is  LUNAR  BOW. 
everywhere  around.  It  seems  a 
spirit  land,  and  gigantic  forms  of  essential  grace  and 
beauty  float  before  the  vision,  upon  the  atmosphere  of 
fancy.  Hushed  is  the  voice  of  mirth,  silent  the  tongue 
of  conviviality.  The  actual  blends  with  the  ideal ; 
contemplation  rules  the  hour  and  the  place,  and  a 
subdued,  but  not  dismal,  melancholy  pervades  every 
brow  and  bosom.  No  sound  is  heard  but  the  choral 
chant  of  tb.e  elements ;  no  sentiment  breathed  but 
such  as  betlts  the  spot  and  the  season.  The  Genus  of 
Niagara,  hovering  near,  spreads  his  misty  pinions  over 
all  things,  and  the  whole  scene  is  hallowed  by  the 
invisible  presenc;  of  Deity. 

MONDA  Y. 

Walk  across  the  upper  Suspension  Bridge  (toll  over 
and  back,  25  cents),  and  engaging  a  carriage  on  the 
other  side,  drive  to  the  Dufferin  Isles  (entrance  for  the 
entire  party  in  a  double  carriage,  50  cents).  Take  your 
lunch  with  you,  let  your  carriage  go,  directing  ft  to  call 
for  you  at  five  o'clock  in  the  evening.  You  will  pass 
here  one  of  the  most  delightful  days  in  your  life.  You 
will  never  forget  their  wild  and  romantic  beauties,  their 
quiet  and  shady  bowers,  their  virginal  freshness  and 
sweetness ;  and  having  gone  once  —  many  days  will  be 


37 


I 
1 


passeU  there  in  blessed  rest  and  peace.  Mr.  Charles 
Dudley  Warner  in  "  Their  Pilgrimage,"  describes  one 
of  the  views  therefrom. 

"  In  the  afternoon,  under  a  broken  sky,  the  rapids 
above  the  Horseshoe  reminded  one  of  the  seashore  on 
a  very  stormy  day ;  iniptded  by  the  rocks,  the  flood 
hesitated,  and  even  ran  back,  as  if  leluctant  to  take  the 
final  plu.ige.  The  sienna  color  of  the  water  on  the 
table  contrasted  shaij-ly  with  the  emerald  on  the 
brink  of  the  Fall.  The  rainbow, 
siiringing  out  of  the  center  of  the 
caldron,  arched  clear  over  the 
American  Cataract,  and  was  one 
moment    bright,    and     the    ne.xt 


VIEW  FROA\ 
THE 
DUFFERIN  ISLES 


dimiy  seen  thrtuigh  C.  .:  mist 
which  boiled  up  out  of  th.e  foam  of  w.iters  and  swayed 
i  1  the  wind.  Through  this  veil  darted  adventurous 
birds,  flashing  their  win',i;s  in  i!i,i  prisinatic  colors,  and 
circling  about  as  if  fa.scinated  by  the  awful  rush  and 
thunder.  With  the  sliifting  wind  and  the  passing 
clouds,  the  scene  was  in  perpetual  change  — now,  the 
.Vmerican  Fall  was  creamy  white,  and  the  mist  below, 
dark ;  and  again,  the  heavy  mass  was  gray  a;ul  sullen, 
and  the  mist  like  silver  spray.  P>-iIiaps  nowhere  else 
in  the  world  is  the  f(.rce  of  Nature  so  overpowering  to 
tne  mi: id,  and,  as  the  eye  wanders  from  the  ch.icjs  of 
the  J'"all  to  the  fir  horizon,  where  the  v.ist  rivers  of 
rapids  are  poured  out  of  the  sky,  one  feels  that  this 
force  is  ine.xl.austible  and  eternal." 


Take  a  carriage  and  drive  down  the  bank  of  the  river 
ff/wi,'-  //le  ^liiifiutn  siih\  taking  your  lunch,  stopping 
at  that  most  interesting  historical  locality,  the  Bloody 
Run;  thence  to  the  heights  above  Lewiston.  c.Jinmand- 
irig  a  most  magnificent  view  of  the  windings  of  t  e 
river  and  the  lovely  valley  of  the  lower  Niagara  and  of 


38 


id  peace.  Mr.  Charles 
riiiiage,"  describes  one 

)r()ken  sky,  the  rapids 
(ine  of  tiie  seasiiore  on 
)y  the  rocks,  the  flood 

if  iciuctant  to  take  the 
r  of  the  water  on  the 

llie  emerald  on  the 
le  I'a'ii.  The  rainbow, 
lilt  of  the  center  of  the 
rched  clear  oyer  the 
Cataract,  and  was  one 
Tight,  and  the  ne.xt 
1     thriuiy;h     tl  ;     mist 

of  w.Ucrs  and  swayed 
:ii  darted  adventurous 
■  prismatic  colors,  and 
jy  the  awful  rush  and 
/iud  and  tiie  passing 
ual  change  —  now,  the 
te,  and  the  mist  below, 
iS  was  gray  a;ul  sullen, 
P>-rIiaps  nowhere  else 
ire  .so  overpowering  to 
Ljrs  from  the  ch.ios  of 
lere  the  vast  rivers  of 
ky;  one  feels  that  this 


n  the  bank  of  the  river 
;  your  lunch,  stopping 
al  locality,  the  Bloody 
J  Lcwiston,  Ci'inmand- 
f  the  windings  of  t  e 
lower  Niagara  and  of 


il' 

rj;    ' 


Lake  Ontario,  rettirninij  to  the  Hotel  for  diniit-r  at  six 
(cost  of  carria>{e  fur  one  or  ni  nc,  six  duliars;  t.  >  tolls). 


ITS' 


n-EDXl-.SD.IV. 

In  till',  niornincr  walk  about  the  State  Park  alnntj  the 
bank  to  the  upper  rapids,  lin;^t.Tin;f  on  the  way  to  "'itain 
many  beautiful  views  of  the  river. 

In  the  afternoon  drive  alonjf  the  upper  r  .m  the 
American  side,  to  La  Salle,  throiujh  a  most  delightful 
section  of  country,  and  in  full  view  of  the  river,  (Cost 
ol  drive,  four  dollars  for  carriajje  for  party,) 

TIIURSDA  Y. 

Take  a  carriasie,  having  your  lunch  with  you,  and 
drive  on  the  Canadian  side  to  the  historic  battle-field 
of  Queenstown  and  the  monument  erected  to  dencral 
Hrock  at  Queens-own  Heights.  This  is,  in  its  historical 
features,  one  of  the  most  interesting  trips  at  the  Falls, 
and  the  outlook  from  the  Heights  is  grand.  (Carriage 
for  entire  day  for  party  of  five,  seven  dollars.) 

FRIDA  Y. 

After  the  long  drive  of  Thursday  you  will  find  it 
most  restful  to  read  or  sit  upon  the  cool  piazza  of  the 
Hotel,  or  make,  possibly,  a  short  visit  to  Prospect  Park, 
the  afternoon  beimj  passed  in  writing  to  your  friends 
about  the  many  charming  experiences  you  have  had 
and  the  benefit  of  these  suggestions,  a  copy  of  which 
you  may  obtain  free  at  the  office,  and  enclose  to  your 
friends. 

SA  TURDA  Y. 

Take  a  carriage  and  your  lunch,  and  cross  the  New 
Suspension  Bridge  to  visit  Lundy's  Lane  battle  grounds, 
passing  thence  to  what  is  unquestionably  the  most 
beautiful  drive  ab'Mit  Niagara,  viz.:  the  Canadian  river 
bank  up  to  the  village  of  Chippewa,  and  thence  to  the 


39 


] 


1! 


r 


upper  river,  comninndini,'  ;i  wide  prnspert  of  the  isl.ituls, 
and  returiiini^'  tliciice  through  the  DitCferiii  IsUinN. 
(Expense  of  carriage  per  day  for  party,  six  dollars.) 

No  extra  cliar^e  is  ni.ide  at  the  hotels  nameil  above 
for  putt'ng  up  lunches  for  guests. 


Of  course,  these  suRj^jestions  could  be  greatly  ex- 
tended by  the  details  of  trips  u|)(pn  the  upper  river, 
where  there  is  even  better  fishing  than  at  the  Thousand 
Islands. 

Of  course,  too,  each  of  the  spots  above  named  can 
and  will  be  visited  more  than  once,  and  with  a  d.iy's 
rest  between  passed  in  the  commodious  and  comforta- 
ble rooms  of  your  hotel. 


It  should  also  be  borne  in  mind  that  upon  the  visits 
to  the  Whirlpool  and  Whirlpool  Rapids,  Islands,  Cana- 
dian side.  Queen  Victoria  I'atk,  Dufferin  Islands,  much 
cheaper  means  of  transportation  than  carriages  is 
offered  by  tl  e  street  railways  and  vans,  which  are  not 
so  exclusive,  but  fairly  comfortable,  and  much  less 
expensive. 

And  now,  reader,  you  have,  I  trust,  begun  fairly  to 
appreciate  the  power,  majesty,  and  beauty  of  Niagara. 
Uo  you  know  a  more  delightful  place  in  which  to  pass 
the  summer  ?  Can  you  find  elsewhere  —  to  speak  first 
of  mere  material  wants  -air  more  pure,  water  more 
li'iipid,  drainage  more  perfect,  climate  more  delightful  ? 
Do  you  knov/  of  any  other  spot  which  so  exalts  the 
imagination,  stimulates  the  intellect,  deepens  the  feel- 
ings of  reverence  and  awe,  anii  which  so  exhilarates 
with  the  sweetness  and  rapture  inspired  by  scenes  uf 
exquisite  natural  beauty  ? 

Believe  me,  dear  reader,  when  I  tell  you  that  you 
have  not  begun  to  yet  understand  it.     "  Age  cannot 


I 


•10 


eprnspertof  the  isl.iiuis, 
li  tlie   Diifferin    Island-. 
or  party,  six  dollars.) 
the  hotels  named  above 
its. 

s  could  be  greatly  ex- 
i  ii|)ipti  the  upper  river, 
ig  than  at  the  'rhousand 


ipots  above  named  can 

once,  and  with  a  d.iy's 

imodious  and  comforta- 


ind  thai  upon  the  visits 
1  Rapids,  Islands,  Cana- 
,  Dufferin  Islands,  much 
tion  than  carriages  is 
ind  vans,  which  are  not 
enable,  and  much   less 


I  trust,  begun  fairly  to 
and  beauty  of  Niagara. 
I  place  in  which  to  pass 
iewhere  —  to  speak  first 
more  pure,  water  more 
limate  more  delightful  ? 
ot  which  so  c.\alts  the 
;llect,  deepens  the  feel- 
iii  which  so  exhilarates 
e  inspired  by  scenes  of 

:n  I  tell  you  that  yoii 
land  it.     "  Age  cannot 


wither  nor  repetition  state  its  infmite  variety.'  It  is 
forever  fair,  forever  new.  In  the  wikl  confusion  the 
fierce  competition  of  business--  you  m.iy  think  of  its 
tossing  r.ijiids  and  its  impetuous  hurrying  stre.'im  ;  in 
your  moments  of  d.irkness  and  despair  you  may,  per- 
haps, dwell  on  its  lonely  and  terrible  Whirlpool ;  in  your 
moments  of  aiiyer,  or  bitterness,  or  envy,  the  fierce 
force  ;uk1  terrific  jiower  of  its  awful  plunge  may  be 
before  you ;  but  again  ;ind  again,  after  all  these  are 
gone  will  arise  in  the  mind's  eye,  that  eternal  image  of 
majesty,  power,  sweetness,  purity,  and  be.iuty  —  the 
limpid  waters  of  the  great  cataract,  falling,  falling  for- 
ever in  unending  peace —  yet  fallii.^  only  to  rise  again 
spiritualized,  chastened,  in  the  spray  floating  away 
to  heaven.  And  behold !  —  on  the  daz/.iing  bosom  of 
that  spirit-shape,  God's  own  bow  of  promise  —  liie  last- 
ing image  of  hope,  of  goodness,  of  pardon  and  recon- 
ciliation ;  far  above  all  strife,  and  tumult,  and  pain,  this 
shines  and  will  in  the  blessed  sunlight  shine  forever! 

Such  are  the  scenes,  Nia.'ara,  that  make  us  love  tht  e, 
and  bind  us  year  after  year  with  unabated  affection  to 
l!iy  shores. 

And  yet,  year  after  year,  thousands  will  come  from 
the  fens  and  marshes  of  the  sea,  from  the  depressing 
outlook,  and  the  narrow,  vacant  life  of  the  country  vil- 
lage, from  the  stifling  streets  and  the  reeking  pavements 
of  the  crowded  city,  and,  entering  upon  thy  scenes  of 
loveliness,  sweetness  and  sublimity,  will  rush  madly 
about  and  attempt  to  see  and  understand  thee  in  a 
day!  "  \'erily  I  say  unto  you,  they  have  their  reward." 
For  "  having  eyes  they  see  not,  and  having  ears  they 
hear  not,  neither  do  they  understand." 


41 


WHURU    SHALL    WF.    STAY.    AND  WHAT    WILL    II 
COST  AT   MACiARA  ? 

You  will  find  excellent  f|iiarters  at  Niagara  Falls 
(lurin;;  the  winter,  sprini;,  and  autumn  months  at  the 
Si'i-.M  1.R  II(ii;sK-  a  cosy,  homelike  hotel.  The  in- 
ternal arrangements  of  the  hotel  eomhine  every  .idvaii- 
tai,;e  of  (juiet,  comfort,  and  convenience.  The  rooms 
are  tastefully  and  richly  furnished  and  .scrupulously 
clean.  X'iands  that  delight  the  eye  and  palate,  linen, 
china,  and  silver  of  unexci'ptional)le  qualiiv,  .servants 
ready  without  impertinence,  and  prompt  wMioiit  brib- 
ery, render  it  a  most  ai^reeahle  place  of  entertainment. 
Charles  Dickens  has  pr.ii  icd  its  table,  Wilkie  Collins 
its  beds  and  tine  linen,  Hooth  decl.ues  it  his  favorite 
hotel,  Moje.ska.  I'arepa  Ro.sa,  Harrett— that  prince  and 
king  of  good-fellowship,  Chaimcey  NL  Dejiew, —  I^ing 
Kalakaua,  the  Grand  Duke  Ale.\is,  Hartholdi,  and  hun- 
dreds of  others  have  enjoyt^d  its- hospitalities.  It  is 
kept  on  the  American  plati  from  May  to  November. 
Its  prices  for  rooms  and  bn.ird  on  the  first  floor  are 
S400  per  day  per  person;  on  the  second  lloor,  $3.50, 
and  on  the  third  floor,  $3,00.  From  November  to  May 
it  is  kept  on  the  European  plan,  with  rooms  §2.00  per 
person  per  day  on  the  first  lloor;  ijii.oo  per  day  per 
person  on  the  second  arid  third  floors,  with  meals  at 
any  hour  to  order.  It  makes  special  prices  per  week 
or  month  for  families,  and  these  may  be  ascertained  by 
wiitinir  to  the  address  "  Spenckr  House,  Niagaka 
Fa  I.  IS,  >'.  Y."  The  visitor  will  do  well  to  do  this,  as 
to  think  of  remaining  less  than  a  week  is  a  great  mis- 
take. 

In  summer,  the  great  hotel  — the  finest  at  Niag.na 
—  is  the  Intern ATioNAi..  The  magnificent  summer 
home  is  worthv  of  a  visit  for  itself.     It  is  four  stories 


42 


^  *wJ- 


ANr)  WHAT   WILL   II 
k(JARA  ? 

triers  at  Niagara  F.il!s 
aiittiiiin  monihs  at  the 
inu'like  hotel.  The  in- 
1  cotnhiiie  every  advnii- 
nvciiitncc.  The  rooms 
shell  and  scrupulously 
-•  eye  and  palate,  linen, 
inable  qualiiy,  servants 
d  prompt  \v'''hoiit  hrib- 
plaie  of  eiUertaiiinieiit. 
;s  table,  W'ilkie  Collins 
declares  it  his  favorite 
larrett— that  prince  and 
icey  M,  Depew, —  King 
xis,  IJartholdi,  and  hun- 
its- hospitalities.  It  is 
;)m  May  to  November. 
1  on  the  first  floor  are 
the  second  floor,  S3. 50, 
rom  November  to  May 
I,  with  rooms  §2.00  per 
lor ;  $1,00  per  day  per 
1  floors,  with  meals  at 
ipecial  prices  per  week 
:  may  be  ascertained  by 
:kr  House,  Niagara  j 
1  do  well  to  do  this,  as  | 
a  week  is  a  great  mis-    j 

I 
-the  finest  at  Niagara  j 
le  magnificent  summer 
self.     It  is  four  stories 


•'  — TIT 


I 


JkL 


p7r 


<^. 


■i  i 


1^ 


1  ' 


A 


hig 

fur: 

ode 

son 

ent 

ricl 

pai 

Fr( 

ale 

isU 

its( 

am 

fai 

wc 

fre 

th( 

an 

th( 

sp 

thi 

tir 

tu 

m 

pi; 

fie 

gr 
so 
t.h 
tr 
sc 

sf 
Y 
o! 

ol 
tl 

C( 

tl 

S( 


il 


•,!. 


t 


high,  built  entirely  of  stone,  the  kitchens,  bakeries,  and 
furnaces  are  in  an  entirely  distinct  building,  so  that  the 
odor  of  cookery  — to   persons  of  delicate   sensibility 
sometimes,  in  summer,  very  offensive— is  never  pres- 
ent in  the  very   large,  spacious,  well-ventilated   and 
richly  furnished  apartments.     The  hotel  faces  the  new 
park,  and  its  lawn  leads  down  (  irectly  to  the  rapids. 
From  its  magnificent  colonnades  and  rooms  an  unriv- 
aled view  may  be  had  of  the  American  Rapids,  and  the 
islands  and  the  brink  of  the  Falls.     Indeed,  the  lawn 
itself— interspersed  with  fine  beds  of  beautiful  flowers, 
and  with  clusters  of  magnificent,  forest  trees— may  be 
fairly  pronounced  one  of  the  loveliest  spots  in  the 
world.     Its  expanse  of  verdant  grass  charms  and  re- 
freshes the  eye  ;  beyond  the  lawn  are  the  silvery  tints, 
the  lustrous  white,  the  indescribable  green  of  the  rapids, 
and  the  wooded  heights  of  Goat  Island— then  appear 
the  brink  of  the  cataract,  the  rising  rainbow-tinted 
spray,  and  then  the  rocky  shores,  the  beautiful  parks 
the  forest-crowned  hills  of  Canada  "  wiihdra.vn  afar  in 
time's  remotest  blue."    There  is  not  an  object  to  dis- 
turb or  annoy,  not  an  unsightly  structure  to  distract  the 
mind,  and  here  for  hours,  while  the  happy  children 
play,  and  the  fountain  —  fresh  fiom  Niagara's  brink  — 
rises  and  falls  in  rhythmic  music  on  the  lawn,  and  the 
great  cataract  rests  and  soothes  with  its  muffled  roar 
softened  by  distance  and  alluring  to  repose— here  is 
the  spot  to  which  the  traveler  may  come  and  find  the 
true  fountain  of  youth  for  which  Ponce  de  Leon  vainly 
sought  in  the  everglades  of  the  South.     No  pains  are 
spared  to  make  its  table  equal  to  the  best  hotels  in  New 
Yorl".  City.    It  is  opened  from  the  1 5th  of  June  to  the  1st 
of  October.     Its  pri'-es  per  day  are  the  same  as  those 
of  the  Spenckk   House,  and  it  is  kept  both  upon 
the  American  and  the  European  pl.in.     It  offers  ex- 
ceptionally low  prices  to  families,  rooms  and  board  on 
the  first  floor  are  §21.00  per  week  per  person  ;   on  thi; 
second  floor  $17.50  per  week  ;  and  on  the  third  floor. 


43 


mrs 


f!i 


Mi, 
ti' 


?! 


u 


-n1 


Si  5.00  per  week.  As  the  hotel  is  tire-proof,  nith  fire- 
escapes  from  every  room,  three  stairw  ays.  and  two  ele- 
vators, the  rooms  on  the  third  floor  aro  almost  as 
desirable  as  those  on  the  tirst  floor.  Nurses  and  chil- 
dren (under  lot  arc  half-price.  To  secure  early  choice 
of  rooms  it  would  be  well  to  write  not  later  than  June 
1st,  and  it  is  believed  that  the  traveling  public  will  find 
the  proprietor  and  all  his  assistants  worthy,  efficient 
and  obliging.  Letters  should  be  addressed  to  the 
International  Hotel,  Nvaci.xra  Falls,  N.  Y, 


44 


>'' 


ire-proof,  nith  fire- 
ways,  and  two  ele- 
)or  aro  almost  as 
Nurses  and  chil- 
seciire  early  choice 
lot  later  than  June 
ing  public  will  find 
s  worthy,  efTicient 
addressed  to  the 
A  Falls.  N.  Y. 


s^-- 


! 


If 


ill 


/ 


'  > 


:i 


, 


I 


■: 


.-/'^-tS^Bj 


^??3 


